一味千秋：麻婆豆腐的流轉與戰爭的影響

A Flavor Enduring Through the Ages: The Circulation of Mapo Tofu and the Impact of War

本研究聚焦中國經典川菜名菜麻婆豆腐，探討從19世紀末至20世紀末，尤其抗戰、冷戰及改革開放時期，戰爭與政治變遷對麻婆豆腐流傳與風味演變的深遠影響。文章考察麻婆豆腐起源於清末成都，雖然於其起源有不同的說法，但其實是在不同時期所建構的歷史，反映當時的特殊目的。抗戰期間，成都作為大後方人口激增，原為地方小吃的麻婆豆腐，因價廉味美和外來知識分子需求而盛行，並在戰後與內戰時期逐步從地方小吃成為全國名菜，冷戰時傳播至海外成為知名的中國菜餚。文革期間遭受打壓，店名被改，改革開放後復興。此外，本文也分析不同時期多種食譜的差異，顯示麻婆豆腐的烹飪方法與口味因社會環境、原料供應與政治因素而變化，從地方自製走向標準化，並見證中國飲食文化的全球傳播與變遷。文中還指出，日本對麻婆豆腐的推廣與改良反向影響中國飲食業，成為一國飲食文化交織與全球化過程的象徵。

This study focuses on the classic Sichuan dish, Mapo Tofu, examining the profound impact of war and political change on its transmission and changes in flavor from the late 19th century to the late 20th century, particularly during the Anti-Japanese War, the Cold War, and the Reform and Opening-up period. The article explores Mapo Tofu’s origins in late Qing Dynasty Chengdu, noting that although various origin stories exist, they are constructed histories reflecting specific purposes through different times. During the Anti-Japanese War, with a population surge in Chengdu as a rear area, Mapo Tofu, originally a local snack, gained popularity due to its affordability, deliciousness, and demand from displaced intellectuals. It gradually evolved into a nationally recognized dish during the post-war and civil war periods, spreading overseas during the Cold War to become a well-known item in Chinese cuisine. The Cultural Revolution brought suppression and the re-naming of the restaurant, but Mapo Tofu revived after the beginning of Reform and Opening-up. This article also analyzes recipe variations across different periods, showing that cooking methods and flavors changed due to changes in the social environment, the supply of ingredients, and political factors, evolving from a local homemade dish to a standardized form, and bearing witness to the global spread and transformation of Chinese food culture. Furthermore, the article notes that Japan’s promotion and adaptation of Mapo Tofu had a reciprocal influence on China’s food industry, symbolizing the intertwining of national food cultures within globalization.