從異域之味到「日常之食」：帝國戰爭與近代日本的滿洲飲食（1920年～1945年）

From Exotic to“Local”: Imperial Warfare and Manchurian Food in Modern Japan, 1920s-1945

食物為審視戰爭與帝國主義的後果提供了關鍵的跨學科視角。現有研究已揭示帝國統治與軍事行動對全球飲食文化的重塑作用。本文在此基礎上，以「滿洲食物」為個案，探討其在日本帝國擴張與全面戰爭動員背景下的多重意涵與消費實踐。通過飲食這一視角，本研究試圖深化對日本帝國主義的理解，揭示帝國權力與軍事行動如何在日常生活中被自然化，並形成一種交織成功與失敗的文化經驗。
　　1931年至1945年間，滿洲食物經歷了從「異域珍饈」向「戰時象徵」的轉變。上世紀30年代初，隨著帝國食物供應網絡的初步形成，滿洲食材與菜餚承載了日本民眾對東亞大陸的豐富想像。軍方與營養學家在發掘其作為理性膳食資源的潛力後，積極推動其進入日本本土市場。日本本土的消費者則視其為帝國擴張帶來的新奇文化體驗。1937年中日全面戰爭爆發後，「滿洲食物」不再是異域風味的代表。政策制定者將其視為緩解糧食短缺的解決方案、促進日滿同化的政策工具以及改善國民營養的途徑。而對普通家庭而言，它逐漸成為戰時配給制度下日常消費的必需品。至此，「滿洲飲食」在後方被賦予了愛國主義與堅韌不拔的象徵意義。然而，這種轉型未能修補官方政策與民眾口味之間的鴻溝，最終注定了「滿洲食物」在日本帝國本土曇花一現的命運。

Food provides a crucial interdisciplinary lens for examining the consequences of warfare and imperialism. Building on existing scholarship that highlights how imperial and military agendas have shaped foodways in global history, this study investigates the history of Manchurian food and explores its plural definitions and consumption within the context of Japan’s imperial expansion and total war mobilization. Through the prism of food, it engages with studies of the Japanese Empire that examine how imperialism and military actions were naturalized in everyday life and reshaped cultural experiences, revealing both successes and failures.
　　From the 1920s to 1945, Manchurian food was transformed from an exotic delicacy of the Chinese continent into a symbol of wartime effort within Japan proper. Following the establishment of an inner-empire food supply network in the early 1930s, foods from Manchuria came to embody metropolitan visions of the continent across the sea. While military authorities and nutrition professionals promoted these resources for rational feeding and dietary reform, Japanese consumers initially embraced Manchurian food as part of a novel culinary experience in the expanding empire. After the outbreak of prolonged war with China in 1937, policymakers popularized Manchurian food as the solution to rice shortage, a method to promote Manchukuo-Japan unity, and a path to better nourishment of the population. For most ordinary households, it became an accessible and inevitable element of wartime dining tables. This transformation illuminates the persistent tension between nutritional ideals, imperial policy, and popular culinary preferences. While Manchurian food became a symbol of patriotism and collective endurance on the home front, its limited integration into everyday diets underscores the constraints of state-driven dietary reform within imperial Japan.