近代中國冰鮮漁業與飲食文化：以上海為中心的考察

The Fishing Industry and Seafood Consumption in Modern China: A Study Centered on Shanghai

漁獲是人類利用海洋資源重要的形式，然而人類大規模開發海洋資源的時間，僅約從最近的一個世紀開始。豐富龐大的海洋漁獲，養活眾多人口、滿足現代社會的口腹之慾，更形成獨特的知識與社會組織。人類得以大量捕撈食用海鮮，與冷凍技術密不可分，因冷藏的應用，使鮮魚不再僅限於河鮮，大量海鮮成為人類重要食物來源，也催生漁獲集中交易市場制度的出現，國民政府於1930年代設立上海魚市場，正顯示海鮮在當時都市消費的重要性。近代中國大約於20世紀初引進冰鮮漁船，在上海出現許多冰鮮行販售海鮮，更有為數不少的雜誌，推廣食用海鮮的新知；食用海鮮，也與現代營養科學、食品衛生問題結合，被認為更有利於營養健康，當然也成為都市餐桌的新寵兒。因此本文主要利用20世紀初上海的各種報紙、雜誌，以及相關檔案，討論冰鮮漁業的發展，更重要的是，希望藉由冰鮮魚的產業發展，一窺近代食用海鮮文化及營養衛生內涵的變化。

This study focuses on the emergence of the modern fishing industry by tracing the development of modern fishing vessels in East Asian waters. The 1920s marked a period of rapid growth, with the Japanese Empire leading the way in constructing a series of modern ports along the Japanese coast, the Korean Peninsula, Kanto Prefecture, and Shandong. These ports provided anchorage for Japanese fishing vessels and served as bases for fishing activities in the Yellow Sea and East China Sea. Fish caught by Japanese vessels were no longer sold as dried or salted fish but were marketed as frozen fresh fish. For example, in the Shanghai market after the 1920s, there was a gradual increase in the availability of fresh fish on ice, many of which were caught by Japanese fishing boats. This shift not only changed dietary habits in modern cities but also sparked nationalistic competition, prompting an active response from Chinese society. In Shanghai, intellectuals debated frozen preservation techniques and the management of fisheries development, recognizing that traditional market trading methods were unsanitary and unpopular with the public. Many seafood vendors appeared in Shanghai, and numerous magazines emerged to promote seafood consumption. This consumption became associated with modern nutritional science and food hygiene issues, and was regarded as more beneficial for health, becoming a new favorite on urban dining tables. This article primarily uses various newspapers, magazines, and relevant archives from early 20th-century Shanghai to discuss the development of the fishing industry. More importantly, it aims to explore changes in modern seafood consumption culture and shifts in nutritional and hygiene concepts through the development of the fish industry.