近代臺灣鰻魚的養殖變遷與消費文化

The Evolution of Eel Farming and Consumption in Modern Taiwan

本文旨在考察鰻魚在近代臺灣的養殖變遷與消費文化。鰻魚是具有相當特殊的迴游魚性，在西太平洋的馬里亞納海溝西側產卵後，隨著黑潮與支流往東亞海域漂流。傳統中國與傳統日本均有消費鰻魚之食俗，前者以藥燉食補為主，後者以蒲燒方式為主。明治維新後，日本開始養殖鰻魚，爾後臺灣成為日本殖民地，當地也發展鰻魚養殖試驗，同時提供日本與臺灣的市場消費。二次戰後日人離臺，鰻魚養殖停頓，期間經過臺灣水產專家研究與撰文提倡，又遇到日本向臺灣開放進口鰻苗，此事業遂成功發展，甚至贏得「鰻魚王國」之稱號。1990年代後中國投入活鰻競爭以及由於鰻苗數量減少，臺灣鰻魚轉移至國內消費，業者提供高品質、營養、健康的「蒲燒鰻魚」料理給國人消費。考察鰻魚在近代臺灣的養殖變遷，提供我們從不同面向瞭解這項特殊魚類的養殖與消費。

This paper explores the characteristics, breeding, evolution, and consumption of eels in modern Taiwan. Consumable eels (Anguilla Japonica) rely on a specific migratory pattern. After spawning near the west side of the Mariana Trench in the West Pacific Ocean, eels migrate with both the Kuroshio current and its branches, all of which lead toward the East Asian ocean area. Both traditional China and Japan had their respective dietary customs for eels. While Chinese dietary customs focused on the principles of food supplements, Japanese dietary customs focused on the cooking of kabayaki. After the Meiji Restoration, Japan launched a project for the breeding of eels, and after Taiwan became a colony of Japan in 1895, the Japanese also developed a system for breeding eels in Taiwan, hoping to provide a sufficient supply of this fish for both Japan and Taiwan. After the end of the Second World War, the Japanese colonizers of Taiwan fled the island, and the eel industry almost came to a standstill by the 1950s. Starting in the 1960s, aquatic experts started engaging in research on the breeding of eels. Fortunately, by 1964, Japan had opened its gates to imports of eel products from Taiwan, a decision that encouraged Taiwan to fully engage in the breeding of eels. Indeed, Taiwan even won a reputation for being the Kingdom of Eels. By the 1990s, while China competed with other countries for a top place in the export of live eels to Japan, Taiwan competitively changed its policies regarding the breeding of eels. Rather than try to undersell all of its Chinese competitors with the cheapest Japan-friendly product, Taiwanese producers have offered good-quality, healthy, and nutritious kabayaki eel to domestic (Taiwanese) markets. Examiningthe historical and cultural aspects of eels in modern Taiwan can give us multiple perspectives on the eel business, extending from breeding to consumption.