國家博物館中的飲食文化展示：以國立臺灣博物館「永續年夜飯──人類世的餐桌特展」為例

Food Exhibitions at National Museums: A Case Study of the National Taiwan Museum’s“Sustainable New Year’s Dinner Tables: Dining in the Anthropocene”

隨著臺灣社會對在地飲食文化的關注日益增加，近年來臺灣公私立博物館、圖書館及檔案館等文化機構紛紛推出以食物為題的展演活動。在此之中，國立博物館作為知識生產空間，具政策溝通的功能，成為建構與再現臺灣飲食文化的重要場域。然而，國立博物館中的飲食文化展示形塑出何種臺灣飲食故事？其展示手法與特性為何？本文透過展示分析及策展人訪談，以國立臺灣博物館的「永續年夜飯—人類世的餐桌特展」為個案，透過分析其展示目的、展示手法，進一步探究飲食展示蘊藏的內涵。「永續年夜飯—人類世的餐桌特展」以節慶食物為切入點，藉由認識臺灣多元族群的飲食文化及其在地生產過程，了解食物背後的生態議題。本文認為博物館中的飲食主題展示，在實務上越來越常與環境議題、食農教育結合。藉由飲食議題的日常性，包裝環境倡議主題；在展示手法上，除陳列真實物件如烹調用具、食器外，精緻擬真的食物或食品模型是展示的必要亮點。策展方也經常結合多媒體、展件與環境設計的安排，塑造擬真的飲食情境，企圖讓觀眾透過類餐飲的環境氛圍中產生共感，觸發自身的記憶，進而理解相關知識或建立展示欲傳達的理念。本文透過飲食展示資料的梳理，認為博物館正在成為提升臺灣飲食文化意識和環境教育的重要場域。

With the increasing attention to local food in Taiwan, cultural institutions such as museums, libraries, and archives have launched exhibitions and events about food in recent years. Among these, national museums, as a space for knowledge production along with communication about government policy, have become an important locus for constructing and representing Taiwanese food culture. However, what kind of Taiwanese food stories are shaped by the exhibition of food culture in the national museum, and what are its display methods and characteristics? This article explores the connotations of food exhibitions through exhibition analysis and curator interviews, using the“Sustainable New Year’s Dinner Tables: Dining in the Anthropocene”exhibition in the National Taiwan Museum as a case study. By analyzing its purposes and methods, this article further explores the meaning behind food exhibitions.“Sustainable New Year’s Dinner Tables: Dining in the Anthropocene”takes festive food as its starting point and as a means to understand the ecological issues behind food. It recognizes the diverse food cultures of Taiwan’s ethnic groups and their local production processes. Food-themed exhibitions in museums are increasingly incorporating environmental issues and education about food and farming. By means of the everyday nature of food issues, environmental advocacy themes can be conveniently presented. In terms of display methods, in addition to displaying real objects such as cooking utensils and tableware, sophisticated and realistic food or food models are necessary highlights of the exhibition. Curators often combine multimedia, exhibits, and environmental design arrangements to create realistic food and dining environments, attempting to evoke empathy in the audience, trigger their memories, enhance their understanding of related knowledge, or convey the ideas that the exhibition aims to express. By sorting out data from food exhibitions, museums are becoming important venues for promoting Taiwanese food culture and environmental education.