一九六〇年代臺灣留學生小說中的食物記憶與身分認同

Food Memories and Changing Identities in the Fiction Writing of Taiwanese Students Overseas in the United States during the 1960s

戰後臺灣「域內」外省族群的小說、散文與食譜等飲食書寫，反映不同時期食物記憶與身分認同取向的世代變遷，而流動於臺灣「域外」的外省族群留學生與移民，在食物記憶與身分認同取向上又呈現出什麼辯證關係與變異呢？若將考察視角轉向「域外」臺灣留學生小說與移民小說，或有助於釐清此一問題，也可藉以呈現戰後「域內」與「域外」臺灣人或中國人之間在食物記憶與身分認同上更形豐富的內涵與差異性。戰後臺灣飲食書寫研究豐富，其考察視角兼顧「域內」與「域外」，且其中探析飲食書寫、離散經驗與身分認同之間辯證關係的論著亦不少，對留學生小說中飲食書寫與食物記憶的探討亦有之，但多屬文學領域的研究成果，且至多一節篇幅，或聚焦單一作家，也未及於1960年代的留學生作品，故有進一步以文化記憶與大眾史學等研究取徑，進行歷史性詮釋與分析的空間。本文作為戰後臺灣20世紀「域外」飲食書寫文本承載食物記憶與身分認同辯證關係和變遷的初步研究，在過去臺灣「域內」外省族群飲食書寫與食物記憶的討論基礎上，援用跨區域與跨國界交流與形構的學思理路，將考察視角轉向並聚焦於1960年代於梨華、吉錚、孟絲、歐陽子、白先勇、彭歌、劉紹銘等外省籍、本省籍與香港籍的留學生小說，並佐以回憶錄、自傳與訪談紀錄，以及劉紹銘旅美記述文字等紀實性素材之對話，探析戰後臺灣「沒有根的一代」留學生集體的食物記憶與身分認同取向之辯證及其共同性與差異性，並期以本文作為未來延伸考察亞洲、歐洲與大洋洲等區域留學生小說與移民小說食物記憶書寫的基礎。

My past scholarship has examined and analyzed domestic dietary writings such as novels, essays and cookbooks in postwar Taiwan in order to explore the dialectical relationship between food memories and national and ethnic identities of mainland Chinese from the 1960s to the 1990s. This article goes on to explore the dialectical relationship between food memories and on-going changes in national identity among Taiwanese students overseas through a close reading of novels and autobiographical narratives of students who studied in the United States during the 1960s, focussing on the perspective of cultural memory. First of all, it offers a brief analysis of the fictional writings of Yu Lihua, Ji Zheng, Meng Si, Ouyang Tzu, Pai Hsien-yung, Peng Ge and Lou Shiu-ming in an effort to define their fiction writings about Taiwanese students studying abroad as truthfully historical narratives from the theoretical perspective of public history and historiophoty. Secondly, it moves on to demonstrate the people, places, and occasions with significance for ritual bodily practices and ethnic markers related to the Madeleine Moment of Taiwanese students overseas. Finally, it discusses the dialectical relationship between food memories and changing identities of Taiwanese students overseas and their children.