「山場」與「岩韻」：武夷茶的風土條件與市場價值建構

'Mountain Plots' and 'Rock Teas': Terroir and the Construction of Market Value of Bohea Tea

中國福建武夷山區的茶葉生產已有1500多年的歷史。宋元以降，憑藉當地優越的自然環境與茶葉加工技術，使武夷茶一度成為朝廷貢品，名重天下。近年來，「山場」與「岩韻」在諸多岩茶品評標準中不斷被凸顯，逐步成為影響岩茶價格的主導原因，並由此形成了閩北山區與茶葉等級對應的空間結構。本文試圖探尋的是品茶中以嗅覺與味覺為主的多重感官（multi-senses）是如何被「歷史地」塑造，同時，當地的環境、技術、風土條件、人、身體感官與市場價值之間的各種複雜互動又是如何建構出當地的空間結構的。通過分析，筆者認為武夷岩茶的「山場」劃分與茶葉等級之間的關聯並不是先驗地存在的，「山場」的形成既是對當地自然環境的空間劃分，也是一種客體化（objectification）的身體感知以及一種主體性的社會結構（embodiedsocial structure）。

The Wuyi mountain region of Fujian province in China has a celebrated history of tea processing, dating back over 1500 years. Ever since the Song and Yuan dynasties, partly thanks to its superior environment and tea processing technology, tea from this area has long been an imperial tribute item. In recent years, 'mountain plots' (shanchang) and 'rock flavour' (yanyun) have been highlighted among all the factors that affect the quality and price of the tea. As a result, there gradually developed an invisible spatial structure corresponding to the distribution and hierarchy of teas. This article aims to explore how the multi-sensory quality of tea, primarily its smell and taste, has been moulded over time, and, at the same time, how the spatial structure has been constructed by the complex interaction of local technique, terroir, agent, bodily perception, and market value. By analyzing these factors, the author argues that the congruent relationship between mountain plots and the hierarchy of rock teas did not previously exist. Mountain plots, once formed, were not only a spatial division of the environment; they were also the objectification of a bodily perception and a kind of embodied social structure.