對「正宗菜餚」的反思：基於大理雙廊2010-2015年的飲食與變遷調查

Arguments on the Authentic Cuisine: Fieldwork on Food Culture and Social Change in Shuanglang, Dali, 2010-2015

飲食文化之「正宗」，在現代餐飲業和旅遊業一直是人們趨之若鶩卻又撲朔迷離的概念。本文以食學為研究視角，藉由人類學田野調查和跨文化比較方法，將雲南大理白族自治州雙廊鎮的食物生產和飲食生活置於旅遊開發、城市移民和飲食全球化背景下，從行為和觀念層面考察了當地不同人群對「正宗菜餚」的理解和實踐，以及社會變遷帶給當地傳統飲食內容、行為和觀念等方面的衝擊。據此認為，「正宗菜餚」本質上是不同餐飲經營實體在市場競爭中為爭奪消費者，而對既有傳統食品所進行的語詞包裝，旨在突出其經營特色的一種話語建構，藉由迎合消費者對異域飲食文化的假想，以提升消費體驗的文化附加價值。正宗菜餚是飲食現代化與全球化語境下，不同飲食行為、觀念交流的產物，亦是可變的和不斷重構的。對一種特定飲食文化的傳承與發展，應當撥開「正宗」的迷霧，將餐飲文化範疇的「風味菜餚」和非物質文化遺產領域的「傳統食事」分開表述，並在操作上分別對應市場導向的「適口珍原則」和還原歷史的「博物館原則」。

In the field of food culture, authenticity is a concept which people involved in the foodservice and tourism industries often pursue, but understandings of it are usually confused. The present paper is based on fieldwork and cross-cultural comparison in Shuanglang Town in the Dali Bai Autonomous Prefecture of Yunnan. There, against a background of tourism development, urban immigration and food globalization, and based on their patterns of food production and food consumption, I explored the concept of 'authentic cuisine' in people's minds and practice, and paid particular attention to different groups of inhabitants. Food, behavior and ideas are involved in the impact of changes in the natural and cultural environment. I argue that 'authentic cuisine' is essentially an invention of the foodservice professionals, with the object of packaging some traditional cuisine, and objectifying and highlighting its product features and attracting more consumers, and meets the consumers' imagination on exotic food culture. The so-called authentic cuisine is the consequence of different foodways and ideas meeting in a context of food modernization and globalization. Therefore, to benefit a food culture heritage, instead of arguing about the concept of authenticity, two other expressions are ought to be considered, that is 'typical cuisine' in culinary culture and 'traditional foodways' as an intangible cultural heritage. In practice, 'typical cuisine' has to follow the 'principal of market selection', while 'traditional foodways' has to follow the 'principal of the museum'.