瑪德萊娜時刻：以戰後臺灣飲食書寫中的食物記憶為例

The Madeleine Moment: Food Memories in the Dietary Writing of Mainlanders in Postwar Taiwan

食物是記憶？當代臺灣學界關於飲食文化史與歷史記憶的相關研究均呈蓬勃發展之勢，關於食物與認同、記憶建構的論著亦不少，但關注食物轉化為記憶之機制的思考與個案研究仍相對缺乏。因此，本文試圖在《追憶似水年華》中的「瑪德萊娜時刻」（The Madeleine Moment）之討論基礎上，從事「食物記憶」之學理探討及其研究分析架構之提議，並進而運用於戰後臺灣外省社群飲食書寫「食物記憶」案例之詮釋。基於本文的問題意識與論旨，第一部分，首先檢視各種飲食文化研究取向，從中闡釋食物的社會、文化意涵。第二部分，由生理學、人類學與歷史學相關學理視角，具體闡釋食物轉化為記憶的機制，進而綜合提出以「身體記憶」、「溝通記憶」與「文化記憶」為核心概念的分析架構，並實際運用於《追憶似水年華》中「瑪德萊娜時刻」之詮釋。如此，本文得以解析食物化為記憶的生理、社會與文化機制，釐清「身體記憶」、「溝通記憶」與「文化記憶」之意涵及其相互之關係，凸顯飲食實踐、食物記憶與社群認同建構之關連性。最後，第三部分以戰後臺灣外省社群飲食書寫與眷村文學中的食物記憶為詮釋對象，並將之置於臺灣由「中國化」過渡到「臺灣化」的宏觀脈絡上進行反思，檢視外省社群食物記憶及其身份認同內涵變遷的辯證關係。如此，本文意欲凸顯飲食記憶及其再現載體，不再只是喚醒群體記憶的催化劑，更是體現群體在「現在」理解、傳遞、維繫與形塑「過去」意象與知識之形式，且構成社群認同與記憶建構的有形載體，最後並從中揭示社群記憶如何隨政治、社會與文化變遷而有所變易。本文在釐清食物轉化為記憶之身體、社會與文化機制的基礎上，初步嘗試思考並提議整合飲食文化與歷史記憶研究的學理根據與分析取徑，進而實踐於臺灣戰後外省社群飲食書寫中「食物記憶」個案之詮釋，並於論證過程中提示可再深入探究之議題。總之，本文希冀對臺灣飲食文化史與認同、記憶政治研究等領域，不論在學理思考與個案研究上，均有所啟發與貢獻。

Food is memories? Many case studies in the fields of dietary culture and historical memory in contemporary Taiwan intend to explore the dialectic relationship between food and identity and memory making, but very few of them look theoretically into the specific mechanisms by which food is transformed into individual or collective memories. Beginning with a close reading and interpretation of the ＂Madeleine Moment＂ in Marcel Proust's In Search of Lost Time, this article intends to propose a theoretical and analytical framework for studying food memories and then apply it in the interpretation of the ＂Madeleine Moment＂ in the dietary writing of mainlanders in postwar Taiwan. For the purpose of this article, I first illuminate the social and cultural significance of the food by exploring various research approaches to dietary culture since the late nineteenth century. Based on the discussion in the first part of this article, I then go on to demonstrate the ways in which food is transformed into memory from the perspectives of the physiology of memory, anthropology, and historical studies, through an understanding the concepts of ＂bodily memory,＂ ＂communicative memory,＂ and＂cultural memory.＂ Finally, the third part of this article moves to use this theoretical and analytical framework to explore the changing features of the ＂Madeleine Moment＂ in the dietary writing of the first and second generations of Mainlanders as well as in the literature of the military dependents' villages (juancun wenxue) in the 1990s. In doing so, this article aims to show the dialectic relationship between the ever-changing configurations of the social identity of Mainlanders and their narratives of food memories under the larger context of Sinification and Taiwanization in postwar Taiwan. I show that food memories not only function as the media of memory to construct and reconstruct identities by storing, maintaining, and circulating certain social groups' understanding and knowledge of certain pasts, but also work as a window to see how social memory is ever-changing with social, political, and cultural shifts.