吳元勝家族與臺北沙茶火鍋業的變遷（1950-1980年代）

The Wu Yuan-Sheng Family and Changes in Taipei's Sha-cha (Satay) Hot Pot Businesses (1950s-1980s)

「沙茶醬」是二次戰後由廣東潮汕移民傳入臺灣的調味醬料。「沙茶」源自東南亞地區的「沙嗲」，經潮汕華工傳回家鄉並加以改良而成為「沙茶」，結合牛肉消費而成為「沙茶牛肉」。二次戰後，潮汕移民將「汕頭沙茶牛肉鍋」傳入臺灣，歷經不同階段的改變，擴大消費區域並增廣客群。本文結合口述歷史與史料分析，探討臺北地區沙茶火鍋的飲食變遷。首先討論沙茶火鍋的消費知識，包括沙茶醬的製作與消費、牛肉消費的知識變遷以及沙茶火鍋的配料。接著，以潮汕移民吳元勝家族在臺北經營的「廣東汕頭元香沙茶火鍋」為主軸，探討二次戰後到1980年代，臺北地區飲食環境的變化以及火鍋業的崛起。透過本文的討論，讀者將了解「汕頭沙茶牛肉鍋」從戰後至1980年代在臺北地區的飲食變遷。

＂Sha-cha sauce＂ is a well-known culinary paste that was brought to Taiwan by Chaozhou and Shantou migrants after World War Two. Sha-cha sauce originated in Southeast Asia, where immigrant workers from Guangdong Province’s Chaozhou and Shantou areas brought the culture of satay (沙嗲) to China, transforming satay into sha-cha and combining it with beef recipe. The result was the celebrated sha-cha beef cuisine. After 1945, Chaozhou and Shantou migration to Taiwan introduced sha-cha beef cuisine (e.g., sha-cha beef hot pot) to the island, and as time went by, the cuisine expanded throughout the capital city of Taipei and attracted a growing legion of fans. In the current study, I combine oral interviews with analysis of historical materials to analyze crucial dietary changes in the sha-cha hot pot business in the Taipei area from the early 1950s to the late 1980s. I first discuss the knowledge surrounding the sha-cha hot pot, specifically examining three topics: (1) the production and consumption of sha-cha sauce, (2) the changes in people’s knowledge of beef consumption, and (3) the ingredients of sha-cha hot pots. I then explore the Taipei restaurant known as Yuan Xiang Sha-cha Hot Pot, which belonged to the Shantou immigrant family headed by Wu Yuan-Sheng. I pay particular attention to the restaurant's role in both Taipei’s dietary changes and the rise of Taipei’s hot pot industry, from the postwar period to the 1980s. Readers of this study should come away from it with a strong understanding of gastronomic shifts in the Taipei area's hot pot scene during the first four decades of KMT-led post-1949 Taiwan.