從雜碎到《中國食譜》：早期華人飲食文化在美國的播遷

From Chop Suey to“How to Cook andEat in Chinese”: The Early Migration ofChinese Culinary Culture in America

華人飲食文化隨著華人移居海外而播遷，海外中華飲食文化的研究橫跨了華人移民史、文化交流史、飲食人類學等不同的學術範疇。本文以19世紀中期至20世紀中期的百餘年為研究時段，考察華人在美國的早期發展及華人餐館的興起、雜碎熱潮的出現，以及在美華人在面對排華壓力下仍努力推廣中菜以促進美國社會對中華飲食文化的理解和接受的歷程。國際社會環境的變遷、移民政策的調整以及對跨文化理解的深化，使美國民眾對中華飲食文化的態度經歷了曲折的變化。美國民眾對中式烹飪的興趣，促成了美國中菜食譜的產生。楊步偉《中國食譜》進一步推進美國社會對中華飲食文化的認識與接受，對英語讀者了解中華飲食文化產生了深遠的影響。

Chinese culinary culture has spread alongside the migration of Chinese people abroad, with studies of overseas Chinese culinary culture encompassing various academic fields, including the history of Chinese immigration, cultural exchange, and food anthropology. This article focuses on the period from the mid-19th century to the mid-20th century, examining the early development of Chinese Americans, the rise of Chinese restaurants, the emergence of the‘Chop Suey’phenomenon, and the efforts of Chinese Americans to promote Chinese cuisine despite facing anti-Chinese sentiment, thereby fostering American society’s understanding and acceptance of Chinese culinary culture. The evolution of the international environment, adjustments in immigration policies, and the deepening of cross-cultural understanding have gradually shifted the attitudes of the American public towards Chinese culinary culture, sparking their interest in learning to cook Chinese dishes and contributing to the creation of Chinese cookbooks in the United States. The publication of Yang Buwei’s“How to Cook and Eat in Chinese”further advanced American society’s recognition and acceptance of Chinese culinary culture, exerting a profound influence on English-speaking readers’understanding of Chinese cuisine.