日治初期臺灣民間纖維工藝之考察——以片岡巖《日臺俚諺詳解》、平澤丁東《臺灣俚諺集覽》為例

An investigation of the development of Taiwan's fiber technology in the early days of Japanese colonial rule - Taking Kataoka Yan's Detailed Explanation of Japanese and Taiwanese Proverbs and Hirasawa Dingdong's Collection of Taiwanese Proverbs as examples

甲午戰敗，臺灣改隸日本，成為海外殖民地。面對不同民族與文化的臺灣民眾，對從未有殖民經驗的日本政府而言，一切都是嶄新的開始。日本殖民政府除了積極從事民生基礎建設，也著手慣習調查，希望從中了解島民習性，以利殖民統治。慣習調查十分順利，促使剪辮、解纏足、禁鴉片……等斷陋習運動的產生，並促成大正2年（1913）片岡巖主編《日臺俚諺詳解》與大正3年（1914）平澤平七（丁東）主編《臺灣俚諺集覽》的刊行問世。
上述這兩本書主編皆為日本人，他們自幼即受儒家傳統教育，嫻熟漢文，同時也接受新式教育，了解西學，具有民俗學學術基礎，並熱愛南國異地文化。他們任職於公部門，咸認為除了官方文書外，可以透過這些普查收集而來的民間俚諺，可令日本人更加深入了解臺灣文化及島民習性。兩書體例相同，以漢文為條目，佐以日文註解，並加註日本同似的俚諺以為參照。兩書中可以看到中國、臺灣、日本三地俚諺的異同。
關於日治初期的服飾與纖維工藝發展研究者多從史料、實物、報刊等方向進行探討，尠自民間文學入手。傳統以來文學即有「廟堂與民間」、「雅正與通俗」之別，俚諺多為歷代先民積累的生活經驗或處世智慧，無須長篇綴文僅以片語隻言即能陳述大道，容易記憶且方便口語傳播，也容易因應人事時地物等外在環境變化而產生新的語彙，更可以印證歷史變化的軌跡與脈絡。
《日臺俚諺詳解》、《臺灣俚諺集覽》二書研究者稀，且多集中於語文領域。筆者為纖維工藝博物館秘書，深知此二書記錄臺灣在日治初期民間文化與生活面貌，有助於了解當時的社會現狀。本文搜集二書中「纖維」意象相關俚諺，輔以人類學、社會學、民族學及報章等相關資料，加以歸納分析。由於雅俗文化有互滲現象，因此將溯源至意象的形成以及俚諺的創發，從中析論百餘年前臺灣纖維發展史。

After the defeat in the Sino-Japanese War of 1894-1894, Taiwan was transferred to Japan and became an overseas colony. Facing Taiwanese people of different nationalities and cultures, everything is a new beginning for the Japanese government, which has never had colonial experience. In addition to actively engaging in infrastructure construction for people's livelihood, the Japanese colonial government also conducted custom surveys, hoping to understand the habits of the islanders to facilitate colonial rule. The survey on customs went very smoothly, which led to the emergence of movements to eradicate bad habits such as braid cutting, foot binding, and opium ban. It also led to the Detailed Explanation of Japanese and Taiwanese Proverbs edited by Kataoka Iwa in Taisho 2 (1913) and Taisho 3 (1914). The Collection of Taiwanese Proverbs edited by Pingze Pingchi (Ding Dong) was published.
The editors-in-chief of the above two books are all Japanese. They have received traditional Confucian education since childhood and are proficient in Chinese. They also receive new education, understand Western learning, have an academic foundation in folklore, and love the foreign culture of southern China. They work in the public sector and believe that in addition to official documents, the folk proverbs collected through these censuses can help the Japanese have a deeper understanding of Taiwanese culture and the habits of the islanders. The format of the two books is the same, with Chinese entries as entries, Japanese annotations, and similar Japanese proverbs as references. The similarities and differences of slang in China, Taiwan and Japan can be seen in the two books.
Researchers on the development of clothing and fiber craftsmanship in the early days of Japanese rule mostly discuss it from historical materials, objects, newspapers and periodicals, starting with folk literature. Traditionally, literature has been divided into ''temple and folk'', ''elegant and popular''. Most proverbs are the life experience or wisdom accumulated by ancestors of past generations. It is easy to state the truth in just a few words without the need for long essays. It is easy to memorize and facilitate oral communication. It is also easy to produce new vocabulary in response to changes in external environments such as people, places, and objects, and it can also confirm the trajectory and context of historical changes.
There are few researchers on the two books Detailed Explanation of Japanese and Taiwanese Proverbs and Collection of Taiwanese Proverbs, and most of them focus on the field of Chinese. The author is the secretary of the Fiber Craft Museum, and I know that these two books record Taiwan's folk culture and life in the early days of Japanese rule, and are helpful in understanding the current social situation at that time. This article collects slang related to the image of ''fiber'' in two books, supplemented by relevant information such as anthropology, sociology, ethnology and newspapers, and conducts an inductive analysis. Due to the interpenetration of refined and popular culture, the origin will be traced back to the formation of imagery and the creation of slang proverbs, from which the history of Taiwan's fiber development more than a hundred years ago will be analyzed.