從清宮到台灣便利商店：「滿漢全席」符號詮解之變化

From Qing's Palace to Taiwan’s Convenience Stores: The Variations of Symbol Interpretation on “Manchu-Han Imperial Feast”

本文以「滿漢全席」、「滿漢」為名的餐席、食品為主軸，探討清宮出現滿漢全席以來，至台灣的現今，人們如何使用此一名詞並轉變其食材、烹調方式等內容，形構出對「滿漢全席」的想像，以及使用者運用此一名詞時帶有的目的性與文化想像。滿漢全席出現於清宮中，起初為統治者為保證本身統治穩固並同時拉攏漢官而出現的滿、漢分席制度，後因文化融合等因素而形成滿漢合流的餐席。隨著傳入民間，各地依食材易得性、當地特色菜餚與當地口味，逐漸出現大小各派滿漢全席；傳入台灣後「滿漢全席」有了內容、場所與形式的多樣變化，更出現祭祀、商業販售系列等新的用途，當今台灣的消費社會則將「滿漢全席」想像為以肉食為主的大餐。以上「滿漢全席」的流變，顯示出此一名詞的內涵多樣性與時代間使用者對宮廷與族群的不同想像，更凸顯出台灣對滿、對中國史的模糊認識所再造出的族群分野。

This study discussed the change of ''Manchu-Han Imperial Feast'' and ''Manchu-Han'' as a term. In the past 300 years, the ''Manchu-Han Imperial Feast'' appeared in different dimensions, and its ingredients and cooking methods have also changed; only the name remains unchanged. How it changed showed people's interpretation of the Manchu-Han Imperial Feast, their purpose, and cultural imagination toward Manchu while using this term.
''Manchu-Han Imperial Feast'' started in Qing's palace. At first, the rulers created a separate banquet system of Manchu and Han. They ensured the stability of their rule while simultaneously winning over Han officials through this banquet. Later, the Manchu-Han fusion banquet was formed due to cultural integration and other reasons. As it was introduced to the people, variations to the ''Manchu-Han Imperial Feast'' were gradually created, and the content and quantity of the dishes were very different depending on the availability of ingredients, specialties, and local tastes.
After being introduced to Taiwan, the content and forms of the ''Manchu-Han Imperial Feast'' and the place people ate it also changed. Including selling and worship, new uses appeared. Now, the ''Manchu-Han Imperial Feast'' has become a meat-based meal in today's consumer society in Taiwan.
The evolution of the ''Manchu-Han Imperial Feast'' above showed the diversity of the connotation of this term and people's interpretation of Qing's palace and Manchu in different eras. It also highlighted the group divisions recreated by the Taiwanese's vague understanding of Manchu and Chinese history.