嗅覺品飲與典型性的建構：消費者對AOC葡萄酒的文化適應歷程（1945-1980）

Olfactory Tasting and the Invention of Typicality: History of Consumer Acculturation to the Quality of AOC Wines (1945-1980)

當代葡萄酒消費者高度重視栽培葡萄的風土（terroir），並普遍認為葡萄酒的生產地與其風味存在正向關係。然而，這一觀念的形成並非自然而然產生的結果。事實上，在19世紀乃至20世紀60年代以前，多數葡萄酒愛好者仍對「風土」抱持負面印象。
1935年「原產地控制命名」（Appellation d’Origine Contr?l?e, AOC）制度的建立，逐步影響對葡萄酒風味的標準。自此以後，葡萄酒的產地被視為其品質的核心規範，對法定產區（AOC）生產者而言，重點在於證明產區葡萄酒的獨特性，使消費者確信產地的風土與品質之間存在正向關聯，進而接受。換言之，唯有其風味與標籤所示產區相符的葡萄酒，才能於市場流通。
在此脈絡下，科學分析，尤其是品飲（tasting），成為AOC葡萄酒品質控管的核心環節。透過精簡與標準化的感官評鑑方式，葡萄酒更能實現其對品質的要求。值得注意的是，在此背景下，品飲詞彙全面革新，並擴展至嗅覺感官的描述，為產區葡萄酒的推廣提供了關鍵工具。這套符合AOC標準的詞彙體系，讓品飲者能更有效地辨識不同產區的特色。他們與生產者、採購方、推薦者和消費者，共同以「典型性」這個新概念，達成「風土與品質息息相關」的共識。
某種程度上，生產者與消費者共同建立一套共通語言，不僅確保資訊傳遞的對稱性，同時提升「原產地控制命名」葡萄酒的經濟價值。最終，在葡萄酒文化蓬勃發展的1960至1970年代，這套嶄新的品飲體系藉由法國原產地命名機構（National Institute of Appellations of Origin）的推動下廣泛傳播。一方面為法國生產者與國內外的推廣者所採納與接受，並迅速掌握全球葡萄酒市場的話語權。自此，香氣、典型性與品質這三個標準，成為葡萄酒愛好者核心的品飲架構。

Today’s wine lover places great importance on wine-growing terroirs. A positive relationship has indeed been established between a wine’s place of production and its taste. However, this positive acceptance of the taste of terroir is not historically a given. Indeed, in the 19th century, and even up until the 1960s for many wine lovers, the taste of terroir associated with a wine had a very negative connotation. The creation of the system of controlled designations of origin in 1935 would slowly change this paradigm of taste. From then on, since the origin of wines was supposed to define their quality, it was a matter, for AOC producers, of demonstrating the uniqueness of appellation wines and convincing consumers of the existence of a positive relationship between origin—and therefore terroir—and quality. In a way, this meant sending to market only wines whose taste corresponded to the place name indicated on the label. In this context, scientific analysis, and tasting in particular, have become essential elements in the quality control of AOC wines. Thanks to actions aimed at streamlining and standardizing this sensory exercise, the wines shipped have better lived up to their promises. Above all, in this context, the complete overhaul of the tasting lexicon and its unprecedented extension to olfactory descriptors have provided a decisive tool for promoters of appellation wines. Thanks to a vocabulary now adapted to the new standards, tasters have been able to distinguish the sensory characteristics specific to each AOC and establish, with producers, buyers, prescribers, and consumers, the existence of a link between terroir and quality around a new word: typicity. In a way, these actors have constructed a common language from producer to consumer in order to establish a symmetry of information between the former and the latter and to stimulate the economic efficiency of AOC wines. Finally, in the 1960s and 1970s, a period of unprecedented growth in oenophilia, this new tasting discourse benefited from widespread dissemination, initiated by the networks of the National Institute of Appellations of Origin. Adopted on the one hand by French producers and influencers and on the other by foreign influencers, it quickly became an essential part of the wine market. A growing number of enthusiasts were then seduced by this new trilogy: aroma, typicity, and quality.