流動的珍珠奶茶：臺灣手搖飲發展之解構與分析

Deconstructing the Development Process of the Taiwanese Hand-shaken Beverage–Bubble Tea

手搖飲在臺灣和國際上都已獲得相當大的歡迎以及具體的經濟產值。平易近人、隨手可得的珍珠奶茶，乃是多重複雜的社會力量的作用以及文化現象的生成，是近年臺灣茶飲的代表。為解構手搖飲發展的社會因素，本研究採取檔案文獻分析與田野觀察法為研究方法，透過時間軸分析，將臺灣手搖飲的發展概分為三個階段分析呈現：一、1980年代手搖飲萌芽期；二、1990年代手搖飲在地成長期；三、2000年迄今手搖飲國際拓展期。本研究進一步以社會學的分析觀點，探討形成手搖飲現象的重要力量與特性，包含：一、產品的流動性；二、營運組織與品牌的流動性；三、知識科技跨域流動的支援；四、文化符碼的累積與流動轉化等四面向，來解構珍珠奶茶飲食文化現象，為臺灣珍珠奶茶手搖飲文化與研究予以學術的累積和呈現。

The hand-shaken beverage bubble tea is one of the representative drinks among Taiwanese beverages in recent years. It has gained considerable popularity and created economic output value both in Taiwan and globally. Approachable and readily available, bubble tea is the result of the operation of multiple and complex social and cultural forces. This study adopts a documentary analysis and field study approach as research methods. Three stages are analyzed and presented: first, the budding period of hand-shaken beverages in the 1980s; secondly, the rapid growth period of hand-shaken beverage culture in the 1990s; and thirdly, the international expansion period for hand-shaken beverages from 2000 to the present. We also explore important factors that contribute to the phenomenon of hand-shaken beverages from a sociological perspective, including the liquidity of products; the liquidity of organizations; the multi-domain liquidity of knowledge and technology supports; and the liquidity and transformation of symbolic content. With these four aspects of the characteristics and transformation processes, we deconstruct the phenomenon of bubble tea food culture.