探索杭幫菜中的菜餚流變：以宋嫂魚羹和西湖醋魚為例

Exploring the Evolution of Hangzhou Dishes: Taking Sister Song’s Fish Broth and West Lake Fish in Vinegar Sauce as Examples

在杭州流行的民間故事中，宋嫂魚羹和西湖醋魚這兩道菜有著非常相似的起源，都是先由嫂子為小叔所烹製，隨後流傳開來。然而當今市面上的宋嫂魚羹同西湖醋魚無論在樣式還是食材方面，都存在極其明顯的差異。
本文通過探查歷史文獻中有關宋嫂魚羹和西湖醋魚的紀錄，得以釐清二者的關聯。宋嫂魚羹出現於北宋，興盛於南宋，在清代經過改良，成為西湖醋魚的雛形，即現在的西湖醋魚實際上是由宋嫂魚羹演變而來，而目前的宋嫂魚羹其實是50年代創製的新杭菜之一，原名賽蟹羹，與歷史上的宋嫂魚羹並無關係。與普通菜餚不同，宋嫂魚羹和西湖醋魚還出現在許多文學作品中，前者在《都城紀勝》、《夢粱錄》、《武林舊事》等宋人筆記中均有記載，在清人詩中則多以美食意象出現，也有部分是作為批判帝王奢靡的象徵；後者偶有出現於清人小說中，且與現當代中國的許多名人有關。宋嫂魚羹作?美食象徵的出現頻率最高，這也是其在文學作品中最本質、最核心的意象，其他內涵均圍繞此點發散開來。

In popular Hangzhou folklore, Sister Song’s Fish Broth and West Lake Fish in Vinegar Sauce are two dishes with very similar origins, both of which were firstly cooked by a sister-in-law for their brother-in-law, and then passed down to others. However, there are significant differences between what nowadays is available in the way of Sister Song’s Fish Broth and West Lake Fish in Vinegar Sauce, both in terms of style and ingredients.
This paper has delved into some historical documents to clarify the real relationship between Sister Song’s Fish Broth and West Lake Fish in Vinegar Sauce, and to clarify the relationship between the two. It turns out that Sister Song’s Fish Broth first appeared in the Northern Song Dynasty, flourished in the Southern Song Dynasty, and then was refined in the Qing Dynasty. This later became the prototype of West Lake Fish in Vinegar Sauce, which means the current recipe for West Lake Fish in Vinegar Sauce was in fact something that evolved from the older Sister Song’s Fish Broth, while the current Sister Song’s Fish Broth is actually one of the new Hangzhou recipes created in the 1950s, originally known as Crab-flavor Soup, which has nothing to do with the Sister Song’s Fish Broth of history.
Unlike ordinary dishes, Sister Song’s Fish Broth and West Lake Fish in Vinegar Sauce appear frequently in literary works, the former was mostly recorded in the Ducheng Ji Sheng, Meng Liang Records, Old Stories of Wulin and other Song-dynasty notebooks, while in the poems of the Qing Dynasty, they were mainly used as food images, and sometimes used as a symbol critical of the emperors’extravagance. The latter recipe occasionally appears in the novels of the Qing Dynasty, and is connected with many modern Chinese celebrities. As a symbol of local?delicacies, Sister Song’s Fish Broth appears with the highest frequency, with its imagery manifested in many literary works, often with other connotations emanating?from within.