日治時期基隆的鰹節（柴魚）產業

Dried Bonito in Keelung during the Japanese Colonial Period in Taiwan

「鰹節」（かつおぶし）是日治時期臺灣眾多水產加工品中，最具殖民特色的食品。作為日臺之間帝國門戶的「基隆」，不僅發展鰹漁業，其鰹節工場同時生產「真鰹節」（正鰹柴魚）與「惣田鰹節」（花鰹柴魚），尤以真鰹節特別重要。本文以《臺灣日日新報》與臺灣總督府殖產局的調查報告等史料，探討基隆鰹節產業的變遷，將其區分為三個時期：1900至1910年代的產業特徵是從試驗製作邁向興盛；1920年代為鰹漁業與鰹節產業的高峰；1930年代以後，受到經濟不景氣的影響以及南洋鰹節的競爭，臺灣鰹節產業趨向沒落。在區域分布上，日人鰹節工場與總督府鰹節製造試驗所皆設置於八尺門漁港、社寮島等地區；在加工技術上，脂肪鰹的脫脂研究是鰹節改良的核心。總結來說，透過本研究可看到日治時期基隆鰹節產業的變遷歷程。

Dried bonito (katsuobushi) is one of the most colonial-style foods among Taiwan’s many processed aquatic products, dating from the Japanese colonial period. As the imperial gateway between Japan and Taiwan, the Taiwanese metropolitan area of Keelung not only developed a bonito fishery industry, but also diversified the industry by producing“sōda bonito”(frigate-tuna products) and“true bonito”(skipjack-tuna products), the latter being particularly prized in food circles. In this article, I use historical materials such as the Taiwan Daily News and colonial-era reports issued by the Governor-General’s Office of Taiwan to discuss changes in the Keelung bonito industry. I divide these changes into three historical periods: (1) from 1900 to 1910, the industry shifted from experimental production to prosperity; (2) in the 1920s, bonito fisheries and dried-bonito production companies reached their peak; and (3) since the 1930s, the bonito industry has generally shrunk, because of the economic downturn and the competition from the Nanyo (South Seas) bonito. In terms of regional distribution, both colonial Taiwan’s Japanese-run dried-bonito factories and the Japanese colonial governor’s bonito-manufacturing laboratory were set up in the fishing port Bachimen in greater Keelung, on Sheliao Island off the Keelung coast, and in nearby areas. In terms of processing technology, the core improvement in dried-bonito production centered on the technology used to‘degrease’(i.e., remove fat from) bonito products. In sum, this study traces the evolution of the skipjack industry in Keelung during and after the Japanese colonial period.