食物、身體與禁忌：以臺灣當代民間流通善書為例

Food, Body, and Thinking about Taboos: A Case Study on Circulating Morality Books（Shanshu）in Contemporary Taiwan

善書是臺灣民間廣為流傳的通俗書籍，也是瞭解近世華人對於宗教、社會、家庭、風俗、倫理、道德等面向想法和意識的指標。善書中有不少關於食物、身體和禁忌的敘述，諸多反映出社會多元宗教信仰勢力的擴散氛圍，同時包納過去與現代的各種醫藥、生理、科學、營養、衛生等學說。對於食物分類、分配和特殊消費模式原則，實則透露從深層文化隱喻、轉喻而來的關連性，除了凸顯民間飲食習性的約定性，亦結合環境、文化象徵建構和一些身體推論的社會文化觀點。本研究主要從筆者蒐集的臺灣民間善書中，關於飲食、食療、補養、食譜等之書寫文本，進行食／物、食／人、禁忌與病因解釋象徵關係的討論，並就食物：從葷到素、身體：從病到癒、禁忌：從俗到聖的角度，探究社會生活實際經驗背後的食物分類傳統、信仰、習慣和療癒觀表達，重新釐清飲食、身體、個人與集體認同之可能多元互相建構的關係。

Morality Books (Shanshu) have been widely circulated folk publications in Taiwan society. They are also an indicator of conventional understanding and ideas among the modern Chinese people about religion, society, family, customs, ethics and morality. There are numerous narratives about food, the body, and taboos in the morality books, where some of them reflect the widespread atmosphere of the multi-religious forces in the society, as well as the various theories of medicine, physiology, science, nutrition and hygiene of the past and present. The main classification, distribution and special consumption patterns of food in these books actually convey the connection with deep cultural metaphors. In addition to highlighting the conventions of ethnic eating habits, they also incorporate the integration of environmental and cultural symbols, and some socio-cultural perspectives on biological, nutritional and medical matters. This article discusses the written texts on diet, therapy, supplements, recipes and so on, from many morality books collected by the author. This paper also discusses the symbolic relationships between food and foodstuffs, food and humans, taboos and the interpretation of the etiology of disease, as well as various transformations: from meat-eating to vegetarian, body: from illness to healing, taboos: from secular to sacred. Behind practical experiences of food classification in social life, this article explores topics such as tradition, beliefs, habitus and healing expressions, all aimed at re-examining possible multiple constructive relationships among diet, body, individuals and collective identity.