飲食即政治：以乾隆三十年《江南節次膳底檔》為討論核心

Food and Drink as Politics: Discussion of“The Royal Menus of the Jiangnan Trip”in the 30th Year of Qianlong

清宮御膳檔案作為中國傳統飲食文化研究的寶庫，尤其乾隆作為不可忽視之對象，其南巡所留下之膳食檔案，除皇家日常膳食紀錄，更兼及節日飲宴、南北飲食交流、食材工法和食器廚役的珍貴紀錄，而賞賜進用更能一窺飲食的政治性；同時南巡本屬特殊政治經濟事件，過程中的瑣碎日常無一不是重要表態，值得細細考索。因此，本文擬從乾隆三十年南巡之《江南節次膳底檔》入手，由賞進頻率、名位品項與相關文獻文物等進行交叉比對，爬梳權力如何在日常飲食運作，於一飲一啄間表露無遺。

"The royal family menus of the Qing Dynasty are of great value for research on traditional Chinese food culture. The Qianlong emperor’s diet and the menus designed by the royal chiefs and officers during his inspection trip to Jiangnan are especially important and cannot be ignored, as they include information about the daily diet records of the royal family, various foods and drinks during holidays and festivals, dietary differences between North and South, cooking ingredients, cooking methods, food and drink containers, and so on. Furthermore, we can better understand political facts and details via food rewards and tributes. Because the Qianlong emperor’s trips down to Jiangnan were political and economic events, all the details must be taken into consideration and carefully investigated. This paper uses“The Royal Menus of the Jiangnan Trip”to discuss the monarch-subject relationship and how the relationship affected the dietary habits or requirements of the people involved."