通往未來的飲食基礎設施：神山町的食物樞紐計畫

Food Infrastructure for the Future: The Food Hub Project of Kamiyama, Japan

日本德島縣神山町發展出以遠距工作為基礎，吸引新移民的地域再生人口策略，成功地創造出一種能夠促進在地循環的小型經濟模式。而在日本地方創生政策的脈絡下，當地居民也合作推出了一個稱為「食物樞紐計畫（Food Hub Project）」的整合性方案。這個計畫由「地產地食」的核心概念出發，以商業法人的經營形式，嘗試修復在地的飲食生產消費鏈結。若與過去所謂的社區支持型農業相比較，這個創新計畫的思維還牽涉到新農業勞動力的培育、新型態的作物選擇與栽培方式、銷售通路與加工產業的建立，以及飲食文化的延續與創新等等不同層面的任務。更具體地來說，食物樞紐計畫不僅要重建在地的糧食生產體系，並且要將農業生產跟加工、銷售、烹調、消費等飲食文化環節相整合，創造出能與當代在地社群結合的新一代在地飲食系統，形成這個山村未來發展與存續的基礎。本論文所試圖回應的問題是：飲食和地方發展的關係是什麼？在地飲食生活的創新建構如何與在地社群發展相結合，從而開展出地方社會的未來圖像？既然飲食是人類生命延續的終極基礎，是日常生活運作中不可或缺的一環，那麼也就可能成為人們在試圖開創未來時的變革起點，這可說是飲食研究中的一個新興議題。本文所提出的飲食基礎設施之田野個案，便是希望能夠協助推進這樣的討論，為相關的社會實踐與政策規劃做出些許貢獻。

This paper attempts to answer the following questions with an ethnographic study on Kamiyama, Japan: What is the relationship between food and rural development? How can the innovative construction of local food culture be combined with the development of local communities to create a possible future for the region? In the context of Japan's regional revitalization policy which has been ongoing since 2015, several residents of Kamiyama cooperated to launch an integrated program called the “Food Hub Project” as part of the township's regional revitalization plan. This project tries to repair the broken regional food chain that has suffered from economic recession and outward migration. The Food Hub Project aims to rebuild the local food system, namely, remaking the missing links between the processing, sales, cooking, and community with new forms of social integration and solidarity. This project's new local food chain aims to form the basis for this mountain village's future development and survival. Since food is the basis for the continuation of human life and an indispensable part of everyday life, it may also become the starting point for social innovation when people try to create their own future. This paper utilizes the concept of food infrastructure to help interpret the case study of Kamiyama, with the hope of advancing discussions on the future of food and making a contribution to related social practices and policy planning.