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篇名
「自然」釀酒人:酒世界裡的新創意
並列篇名
'Natural'' Winegrowers: New Deal in the Wine World
作者 Christelle PINEAU
中文摘要
在 1980 年代的法國,一群釀酒葡萄種植者開始以「自然」的方式工 作,以應對過多的合成化學物質及人為技術被大量應用在葡萄種植與 釀造過程的現象。相關網絡逐漸在法國被建立起來,於 2000 年代初開 始擴展,現在已經建立起良好的基礎,並持續吸引葡萄酒專業人士和 消費者成為新的追隨者。這種新興的製酒模式正在逐漸影響著世界上 所有的葡萄莊園,近來也形成一個「自然」農法的葡萄種植與酒釀造者 組成的全球網絡。廣義上,「自然」農法的葡萄種植與酒釀造指的是不 使用化學物質和「最少干預」的原則,以增強葡萄藤本身的活力,並生 產出「健康」的葡萄酒。取決於葡萄種植與酒釀造者,「自然」的概念與 生物動力學在實踐上有不同程度的關聯性。
英文摘要
In the 1980s in France, a group of winegrowers started to work in a ''natural'' way in reaction to the massive diffusion of synthetic chemicals and the introduction of what they saw as too much technology in the way wine was made. A network was gradually built up and eventually took off at the beginning of the 2000s. Now well-established in France, it keeps gathering new followers among wine professionals and consumers. The phenomenon is gradually affecting all the vineyards of the world and a worldwide network of ''natural'' winegrowers has recently been set up. Broadly speaking, ''natural'' winegrowing is based on the absence of chemical inputs and the principle of ''least intervention'', so as to empower the vine itself and produce ''healthy'' wines. Depending on the winegrowers, it can be associated with biodynamic practices to various degrees. ''Natural'' winegrowers'' practices are dynamic and evolving. They have access to a set of tools and ideas that stem both from academic knowledge (for instance, the works on microbiology and chemistry of thewinemaker and researcher Jules Chauvet) and from knowledge from the sensible world (in which biodynamics, as well as other forms of empirical and/or spiritual knowledge, can be classified). However, if the contributions of positivist sciences are not excluded, they do not serve the same purposes as in conventional winegrowing. These winegrowers'' use of academic knowledge does not aim at mastering life to obtain better yields, but rather at obtaining a better knowledge of life to optimize the different forms of dialogue they can have with it. This is why they do not hesitate to combine different sources of knowledge to feed their experiments in the vineyards and the cellars. Integral to the praxis of ''natural'' winegrowing, this element of research takes an increasingly important role in the context of climate change. To create a better connection to living things, these winemakers borrow from ancient farming practices.
起訖頁 133-175
關鍵詞 葡萄酒自然實驗氣候感官wine nature experiments climate senses
刊名 中國飲食文化  
期數 202010 (16:2期)
出版單位 財團法人中華飲食文化基金會
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該期刊-下一篇 從小偏鄉到大舞臺:茅台酒聲望的拓延(1915-1935)
 

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