查科麗（Chacolies）西班牙西北雨南美的淡薄酒及強認同

Chacolíes: Light Wines and Strong Identities in North-West Spain and South America

查科麗（Chacolíes）是一種廣受歡迎的淡薄葡萄酒，起源於 16 世紀初的西班牙西北部，美洲地區的歷史則可追溯至 18 世紀末或 19 世紀初。查科麗在西班牙西北部（坎塔布里亞、巴斯克地區、納瓦拉、 和布爾戈斯）、智利、阿根廷（里約內格羅省）等地有悠久的生產歷史。目前巴斯克地區生產的查科麗受到三種「原產地名稱保護制度」的規範：1989 年格塔里亞查科麗（Getariako Txakolina）、1994 年比斯開查科麗（Bizkaiko Txakolina）、和 2001 年阿拉瓦查科麗（Arabako Txakolina）。在討論查科麗其他面向之前，我們首先從「查科麗」的詞源來討論其複雜的內涵與概念。我們認為最可能的推論是與當地葡萄酒酸度有關的假說。其次，我們分析不同種類查科麗的共同主要特徵演變過程，與人們認知的改變。查科麗可以是白酒、紅酒、或粉紅（rosé/ojo de gallo [cock eye]）酒。曾經不管何時何地，查科麗都是最淡薄的葡萄酒。雖然在 1870 年代仍有酒精只有 5 度的查科麗白酒，然而，查科麗也無法抵抗世界趨勢而逐漸提高其酒精濃度，目前最淡薄的查科麗大約是 9 度。查科麗也與特定的社會性連結，參與了多重認同的建構過程。在西班牙西北部，小酒館稱之為 Chacolí 或 Txakoli，用來搭配在地常見料理。在過去幾十年中，在美洲和西班牙產區都舉辦了「查科麗」嘉年華。查科麗所具有的獨特性，提供我們一個重新思考社會如何建構所謂「好」葡萄酒的絕佳例子。

Chacolíis the name of a fascinating family of light wines that was born in Northwest Spain at the turn of the 16th century and whose American branch dates back to the end of the 18th or the beginning of the 19th century. Chacolíes have been historically produced in Northwest Spain (Cantabria, Basqueland, Navarre and Burgos), and Chile and Argentina (Rio Negro). Those from Basqueland are currently sold under three Protected Denomination of Origin: Getariako Txakolina (1989), Bizkaiko Txakolina (1994) and Arabako Txakolina (2001). In this synthetic panorama, we first question the complex notion of ''chacolí'', taking into account its etymology. We show that the most probable hypotheses are those that link ''chacolí'' with the relative acidity of local wines. Then, we consider the main characteristics of the different kinds of chacolí, their evolution and changing perceptions of them. Chacolíes could be white, red or rosé/ojo de gallo [''cock''s eye''] wines. Chacolíes were, everywhere and every time, ones of the weakest wines available. In the 1870s, it was still possible to find white chacolíes with 5°of alcohol in some years. However, they were no exception to secular global trend towards higher alcohol levels in wines. The weakest current chacolíes contain around 9°of alcohol. Chacolíes were also linked with specific sociabilities and involved in various identity processes. In Northwest Spain, a tavern where these local wines were consumed with popular dishes was known as a ''Chacolí'' or ''Txakoli''. During the last decades, Chacolífestivals have been created in the American and Spanish production areas. Finally, Chacolíes are perfect products to think about the social construction of the goodness of wines because of their particular intrinsic qualities.