清香：一個改變台灣高山地區景的味道

Qingxiang: A Taste Changing the Landscape of Taiwan's High Mountains

Since the early 1980s, Taiwan's tea plantations have spread into mountain areas to grow and harvest better high-quality tea leaves. Tea growers, craftsmen, and experts have developed a new taste and hence a new category of tea, and this has changed the entire landscape of Taiwan's high mountains. This paper examines how the new taste, known as qingxiang (fresh and fragrant), was invented and how it sparked a whole series of changes in Taiwan's tea culture, including a new tea tasting style, a new system for evaluating the qualities of tea, and a marked trend toward producing all kinds of teas with qingxiang flavors on both sides of Taiwan Strait. I will pay particular attention to how materiality, technologies, and human intentions work together to make this special taste possible and how the invasion of tea plantations into Taiwan's high mountains has given rise to serious environmental concerns over the last three decades. 臺灣從1980年代初期起，茶樹種植就從中低海拔往高山發展，茶農、製茶師傅及茶葉專家利用高山生產品質較高的鮮葉，共同開發出新的風味及商品，並因此改變了臺灣高山的地景。此篇論文探究，這個被稱為「高山的清香風味」如何被創造，引發一系列的轉變，新的品茗、評茶方式因應而生，並於海峽兩岸茶區，造成製茶清香化的趨勢。此篇文章聚焦於：物性、技藝、科技與行動者的企圖，如何共同造就一個新風味的產生，而其結果（茶區高山化）又如何引起臺灣環保的憂慮。