擺盪在傳統、記憶與食安之間：醬油觀光工廠裡的文化與身體經驗

Tradition, Memory and Food Safety: Cultural and Bodily Experience in the Soy Sauce Tourism Factory

黑豆蔭油以其傳統釀造、美味與在地風土等特質的強調，所引起的關注遠超過其日常使用量；戰後佔據臺灣絕大部分調味料市場的豆麥醬油，則被視為大量生產、缺乏風味，甚至披上化學醬油的惡名。蔭油的興起，與臺灣對在地性的強調及食品安全的擔憂有著十分密切的關係，這也顯現出臺灣日常飲食緊密依賴食品大廠，卻又對小作坊有著無限嚮往的矛盾現象。本文透過醬油觀光工廠的田野調查，去檢視當中的導覽與觀光體驗如何再現蔭油釀造過程中的師傅技藝、傳統勞動並連結遊客的過往回憶，進而分析豆麥醬油隱身的意涵。本文發現身體感研究所提出之「受文化所形塑的感官經驗」，有助於理解醬油觀光工廠裡為了遊客體驗而設計出各種被拆解的身體經驗。前述被拆解的感官經驗，透過DIY試做得以統合並形成一種擬制體驗，讓遊客真實地感受到傳統釀造製程中所蘊含的師傅手藝與在地、小量生產的特質，進而讓憂心食安的遊客獲得鄉愁式的慰藉。 When soy sauce is mentioned, the Taiwanese tend to think of black soy bean soy sauce as a unique representation of Taiwan. However, Taiwan's daily use and sales of regular soy sauce tell a different story: black bean soy sauce is much less popular in today's Taiwan than regular soy sauce, which occupies almost 80 percent of the market share. One may ask, what made for the seeming absence of regular soy sauce in popular writing and promotions for Taiwan's foodways? As a symbol of the local brew, with traditional flavor and hand-made in workshops, black bean soy sauce has been re-created recently, in stark contrast with regular soy sauce, which is portrayed as a product of mass production and a food factory product, lacking in flavor, with the product made through a “chemical” procedure. This paper explores how these binaries were being created and in which contexts the comparisons were being conducted. Also, inspired by the concept of “embodiment” that focuses on human perceptions shaped by culture, the author argues that tourism factories of black bean soy sauce have simulated the techniques used by craftsmen to design a step-by-step demonstration to help visitors experience traditional soy sauce brewing. The design of do-it-yourself brewing goes even further, relating each step in the process to a comprehensive understanding of traditional soy sauce brewing, in which the roles of timing, the local environment, and skilled human labor have all been emphasized.