中文摘要 |
本文藉由訪查大臺中地區中小型家庭式釀造工廠的生產轉變,討論在地類型的家庭發酵工坊,在歷經工廠的規模擴張、以及農產品原料的供應鏈轉變,和從保存方式到發酵速度等技術轉變之後,對醬料風土與在地性所造成的影響。一方面,從製造過程的多樣性,討論原料類別到發酵階段等工業模式,如何改變食品發酵業對技術與生產規模的想像。另一方面,因為家庭式發酵工坊的現代化,以及市集與日常生活中交換場域的變動,使食物生產與消費之間,從單一品項製作走向個人化與多樣性網絡的鏈結關係。傳統的發酵產品以「風土」(terroir)的作物生產與地理特性關係,轉變成現代消費對「口味」的追求;而發酵工業從傳統製程設置環境的內部管理,走向多家廠商之間互相合作的組裝網絡模式。本文將針對發酵工業生產者因應多樣口味需求之變通,討論從食品加工網絡到風土功能化的思維轉變。從醬油、味噌、與醋三種發酵食品的運用,表現出醬料多樣性製作網絡的類型,也透過多重的在地使用,把發酵醬料中的風土、功能、與口味重新連結起來。透過功能解說與觀光體驗的「邊界物件」過程中,原料組裝的現代風土可能產生的危機感,被重新認識並且體現為與文化地理相關的風味消費。
This paper takes three types of fermented food producers, located in the Central Taiwan area, as examples to discuss the transition of fermentation technologies to modern methods and resulting impacts on the scale and efficiency of production processes. One the one hand, fermented food processes have changed from single production chains to mutually dependent networking of functional products. On the other, modernization of family-based food workshops provides new openings for the network of traditional markets as well as new relationships between consumers and producers. The concept of “terroir” in fermented food has also shifted from a focus on local production means to the pursuit of “flavor” of the fermented foods along the lines of modern consumerism. This paper discusses the transition from agriculture-based production chains to industrial-oriented production networks. Taking the cases of three fermented foods as examples-soy sauce, vinegar, and miso paste-this article provides food for thought on the relationship between locality, function, and taste production. In conclusion, this paper suggests application of the concept of “boundary object” in order to review the assemblage of sauce production in contemporary settings. |