13世紀英格蘭飲食中的香料

Spices in Thirteenth-Century English Cooking as Seen in Recipes and Royal Records

本文首先利用13世紀後半及14世紀早期在英格蘭編寫的兩部手抄本食譜（現存於大英圖書館，編號Additional 32085及Royal 12.C.xii）藉以呈現兩個時期菜餚的特色，並探討東方香料運用的轉變。接著從13世紀英格蘭王室的檔案紀錄中，整理出香料醬汁的盛裝器皿和烹調場所、香料的大宗購置和日常採買等方面的變化。從手抄食譜中可發現香料的運用逐漸精確，在13世紀的食譜中常見模糊指示，如「加入好的香料」，到了14世紀，則會在食譜中詳列種類，但用量還未註明。而從王室的檔案紀錄中，可見使用香料的彈性，如13世紀中期，國王亨利三世在有意節約時或大舉宴客時，花費在香料的金額差異甚大，顯示香料在烹調中並非不可替代。

This paper seeks to explore the culinary uses of spices in the thirteenth century, in order to determine how far back the cooking style in the Forme of Cury went. A comparison of the two sets of Anglo-Norman recipes in British Library Manuscripts Additional 32085 and Royal 12.C.xii, suggests that in the 1270s spices were still interchangeable and named dishes did not necessarily have particular tastes and appearances. Furthermore, the degree to which the king's expenditure on acquiring silver saucers, building sauceries and purchasing spices fluctuated points to the possibility that spices were not yet essential to the cooking process, even in the richest household of the realm.