東南亞飲食再現策略：異國時尚、多元文化與己異化認同

Strategies of Representation for Southern East Asia Foods: Exoticism, Multiculturalism, and Self-othering Identification

飲食是掌握全球化與地域化之複雜關聯的重要切面。異國飲食的再現，不僅塑造了文化交流的想像圖式，也標定了社會行動的認知框架。本研究以東南亞飲食新聞報導和東南亞風味餐飲店名片爲分析材料，探討東南亞飲食的再現策略，並嘗試掌握餐飲店經營者族裔身分、經營定位及再現策略的關係。主流媒體方面，飲食再現主要包括「異國文化消費」和「多元族裔文化」兩種認知框架，其敘事主題和策略，前者有時尚餐飲、異國風味、健康養生、品味知識與消費選擇等，後者是移民風俗、族群交流、思鄉情懷、族裔網絡與族裔謀生等，各自吻合「文化經濟」和「多元文化論」的想像邏輯。名片方面，則有明顯的族裔身分差異，呈現為爲國風味、「己異化」認同等不同策略：台灣本地經營者傾向於訴諸時尚品味，模糊特定族裔文化指涉，以抽象符號烘托異國情調；東南亞移民店家傾向於強調族裔語言，以實用資訊提供爲主，但也有己異化現象，顯示其同時定位於「族裔經濟」和「文化經濟」的狀態；東南亞華人的再現策略則兼納雙方特性。簡言之，族裔飲食再現策略的差異，既展現於不同媒體脈絡，也涉及了性別和階級的邏輯，而不能單從族裔入手。

Foods and eating are keys to the complicate connections between globalization and localization. The representations of foreign foods are not only shaping imaginary scheme for cultural interaction, but also setting the cognitive framework for social actions. This article discusses the strategies of representation of Southern East Asia foods on news reports and business cards of restaurants, and the relations between restaurant keepers' ethnic identities and strategies of representation. As for news reports, there are two main frameworks-cultural consumption/cultural economy and multiculturalism-for foods related representation. As for business cards, there are evident differences in representing strategies among ethnic groups: local Taiwanese keepers' business cards tend to adopt exoticism and fashionable styles; Southern East Asia immigrant's business cards emphasizing ethnic language and functional information, but will also adopt ”self-othering identification” strategies according to their dual positioning in cultural economy and ethnic economy; and overseas Chinese keepers' business cards showing hybrid styles in accordance with their in-between position. The authors argue that the different strategies for ethnic foods representations involve different media contexts and c1ass and gender relations rather than ethnicity only.