印尼改革時期（1998-2018） 穆斯林婦女頭巾穿戴風格的變遷

The Transformation of Hijab Style during the Reformasi Era (1998-2018) in Indonesia

現代穆斯林婦女頭巾的穿戴乃根據伊斯蘭法對女性服裝的要求，它不但是婦女服飾規範，更是穆斯林社會宗教管理、性別關係、性道德與商業邏輯等錯綜複雜內涵之呈現。本文旨在探討印尼自1998年5月蘇哈托政府結束長達三十二年威權統治後，邁入所謂的「Reformasi Era」（改革時期）後，其民主化、經濟自由化，以及伊斯蘭復興改革的潮流如何形塑婦女頭巾穿戴風格轉變的歷史。首先簡要回顧蘇哈托新秩序時期，在世俗價值與威權政治壓迫下，民眾因為疏於深入理解伊斯蘭教義，從原先認為頭巾的穿戴與時代脫節，轉而認知頭巾具有自我信仰意識覺醒的意義與抵抗世俗政治權威的象徵。接著探討改革開放之後，隨著伊斯蘭復興思潮的深化，印尼境內幾個區域對地方伊斯蘭法的強化，導致頭巾穿著的要求益加普及。而印尼伊斯蘭意識的保守轉向遂導致頭巾穿戴的要求對婦女身體產生更多約束。同時，因為印尼經濟的快速發展、都市中產階級的崛起，以及印尼穆斯林社會與伊斯蘭經濟的媒合所產生的頭巾產業與時尚，對原先具有保守管制性的頭巾穿戴要求提出新的挑戰。儘管如此，傳統保守穆斯林未能完全包容期開放意涵，轉而批判時尚頭巾。藉由探索印尼過去二十年（1998-2018）的變革歷史中頭巾穿戴風格政治，此論文當有助於理解印尼伊斯蘭復興改革運動中宗教、政治與商品化現象的新動向。

According to the Sharia (Islamic law), wearing Hijab (headscarf) is religious obligation upon Muslim women, while reflecting complicated impact on the Muslim society in the aspects of religious norms, gender relations, sexual morality, and bussiness logic. This article explores how in Reformasi Era the democratization, economic liberation, and trends of Islamic revival have resulted to the transformation of Muslim women’s Sharia dress, i.e. the Hijab style. It first reviews the historical background of New Order era in that Muslim society was compelled to draw out of Islam under secular and authoritarian repression in politics, and Hijab was deemed old-fashion let behind the societal progress. However, this negative attitude changed gradually throughout the growing concept of Hijab as a symbol of Islamic awareness and resistance to the repression of secular authoritarianism. Due to the wide spread of revival trends, the appeal of implementing Islamic law in some provinces (Perda Sharia) has made Hijab mandatory for Muslim women in public sphere. As a result, the disciplinary regulations became more repressive to the secular-oriented women. Furthermore, the economic development and the emergence of Muslim middle class facilitated the rapid growth of Halal economy that increased market demand for Hijab fashion. It therefore challenged the traditional conservative dress of Muslim women, and caused more criticism from the religionists in terms of Islamic morality. To explore the transformation of Indonesian Hijab style during the past two decades (1998-2018) will certainly shed new light on the significant phenomena of religio-political relation and commodification of religion in the Indonesian Islamic reform and revival.