重返安閑園──辛永清「食譜文學」中的時空、家國與性別

"Returning to the Anxianyuan: Chronotope, Home-nation and Gender in the‘Cookbook Literature’of Xin Yong Qin"

辛永清出生於日治時期的台南，婚後移居日本，但很快即離婚，並為謀生而展開料理教學，在1980年代陸續出版以台南安閑園為主題的日文食譜與回憶錄。辛永清的作品兼具文人食譜、移民食譜與當代飲食文學之特色，本文以「食譜文學」來指稱此種在文本呈現上雖以食譜為主，但兼具個人情感與想法意念表述的文學作品，並從時空、家國與性別角度進行文本分析。從「時空體」概念探究辛永清作品中的空間與時間，辛永清的作品連結了日治時期的台南與1980年代的日本，同時也是辛永清的「婚前時代」。她隱去園中複雜的人際關係，將安閑園呈現為一個凝結的時空，並以「辛家之味」作為中華料理的代稱，這不僅說明了烹飪技藝的來源，同時也是她的文化記憶之所繫。同時，辛永清對宴客細節的諸多描寫，呈現食譜中的性別差異，也突出了「母親」角色在食譜中的對話位置。

"Born in Tainan during the Japanese colonial period, Xin Yong Qin moved to Japan after getting married; however, she divorced soon after and began her cooking-teacher career in Tokyo in order to make a living. Xin published three cookbooks and one personal memoir in the 1980s, and all her books focused on the Anxingyuan–which can be translated literally as“Peaceful and Pleasant Manor”- where she spent and enjoyed her childhood. Both Xin’s cookbooks and memoir contain features typical of recipe books written by the literati, immigrants’cookbooks, and also works of contemporary culinary literature. This article categorizes her works as‘cookbook literature’–a term which refers to books written in the style of a cookbook that also contain abundant writings full of rich emotion and personal reflection. The researcher adopts chronotope, home-nation and gender perspectives as tools with which to analyze Xin’s books.Bakhtin’s theory of chronotope provides insights which allow for an exploration of the time-space relations within the books of Xin Yong Qin. Her books connect Japanese colonial Tainan and the Japan of the 1980s. The specific time-space also refers to her pre-wedded days. Masking the complicated personal entanglements that existed in the Anxingyuan, Xin represented this peaceful manor as a blissful frozen space. She adopted the name‘Xin Family Cuisine’to refer to the Chinese dishes she introduced in her text. This name not only invokes the origin of her cooking skills but also the site of cultural memory. Xin’s thick description of the details of banquets and feasts demonstrates the gender difference presented in recipe books, and it highlights‘mother’as the most important role of dialogue in her cookbook writings."