從台南小吃涉入程度探討食器對於味感的影響

A Study on the Taste Perception towards the Utensils from Tainan Local Food Involvement

味覺相關研究證實，飲食過程中次要的感官刺激，如視覺、嗅覺、聽覺甚至觸覺等，都會無意 識的影響食物嚐起來的味覺感受並改變整體飲食經驗；而在講究飲食五感上更細膩體驗價值 的休閒時代，台南作為台灣飲食文化的重鎮，其吃的文化含量、體驗過程及感官享受，也都更加受 到重視。食器，作為食物最直接的背景，相關研究已證實其視覺刺激對味覺的影響就算在較複雜的 真實環境下仍是顯著的；因此本研究選定以食器為媒介，討論不同食器特徵對於台南小吃高低涉入 族群所認同之台南在地味覺感受的影響，以期提升小吃文化體驗價值之參考。透過市場調查分類選 定六食器代表樣本，盛入小吃使高低涉入族群分別作視覺及味覺的台南在地認同感評分，進而比較 不同食器對其味覺體驗影響的程度及差異，並以評價構造法萃取各食器引發之台南在地味覺之感受 及來源。研究結果發現食器特徵對於高低涉入族群小吃在地味覺感受的體驗都有顯著的影響；對於 高涉入族群食器的視覺刺激決定了味覺感受，味道是用來再次確認視覺所誘發之在地味，因此對味 的食器其視味覺將相輔相成帶給高涉入族群高認同感；而低涉入族群從視覺到味覺是一連貫的體驗 過程，相對於高涉入族群以味覺來驗證視覺誘發之在地味，低涉入族群透過味覺再一次修正並重新 建構各食器的在地味，因此在味覺感受階段的評價與視覺階段幾乎不存在相關性，而是一持續探索 及發現的過程。透過評價構造法也發現，高涉入族群的經驗來源較廣泛自由且不受限，而低涉入族 群則多專注於具體且直接等較狹隘的連結。而兩族群共同的現象為，普遍常見的熟悉感是評斷台南 在地味覺感受重要的依據之一，這樣的食器也能帶來視味覺較一致的評價；而能誘發長期記憶的食 器，相較於其他食器更能帶來較強烈及高評價的在地味覺感受。

A number of studies have shown that the secondary sensory stimulation, such as sight, smell, hearing or touch, can affect the taste of food unconsciously and even change the overall dining experience. In the decade of leisure, we pay more and more attention to the experiential value of five senses when eating, and Tainan, being the center of Taiwan food culture, the cultural content, experiential process and the feeling during the diet have become even more important. The utensils are the most direct backgrounds of foods, and relative studies have proved that there was significant influence between the visual stimulation of the utensils and the taste of food even in a complex environment. Therefore, the utensils were selected as mediums to discuss that how different features of the utensils influence the taste of local flavor for the high involvements and the low involvements. It is hoped that the result of this study will enhance the experiential value of tasting local food. The result showed that the utensils had significant impact on tasting the local flavor for no matter high and low involvements. For high involvements, the visual stimulation of the utensils had already determine how the food would taste, and tasting was just to confirm the feeling which induced by sight is accurate. And for the low involvements, during the whole process from sight to taste, they kept modifying and re-constructing their feeling of Tainan local flavor through the utensils. And for all, familiarity of general common sense is one of the important bases to judge the local flavor, and the utensils which induced long-term memory can bring intensely higher evaluation of the local flavor.