味覺地圖上的漫遊者：韓良露飲食書寫中的「家鄉味」

The Flaneur: “Hometown Taste” in Han Liang-lu's Food Writings

在當代書寫中，類型文學如雨後春筍湧現，但在龐大的類型文學中，飲食書寫最難被界定，也因此定義最為多元，舉凡個人飲食經驗、烹飪過程描寫，懷舊憶人，皆可歸於飲食書寫的範疇中。在當代飲食書寫中，名家輩出，本文僅聚焦在韓良露飲食書寫中的「家鄉味」，作為她飲食書寫特色。因此論文的脈絡上先以「看不見的家鄉地景：他方他者的家鄉味」，研究探討家鄉食物、「家鄉味」對於人的意義，說明食物與人的密切關係。其次，再以「『玩』味的漫遊者──波希米亞旅人的家鄉味」，探討作為一個遊移在城市空間的文化觀察者，韓良露的「漫遊」和「尋味」之間的關係。又次，以「『知』味──灶神坐命的家鄉味」，爬梳韓良露的「家鄉味」為何？「家鄉味」與「地方感」的關係為何？最後，「以『尋』味的地圖──城市中的家鄉味」，研究她如何透過外食中重重疊疊的食物印記，用「家鄉味」找回記憶中的台北家鄉和召喚逝去家人的方式。綜言之，韓良露的飲食書寫是以「味」為中心，找回地方感的認同之旅，是「知味」、「玩味」到「尋味」的探險之旅。韓良露的「家鄉味」是由空間概念的「家鄉」與食物「味」結合的有機整體，她的食物書寫是藉由食物追溯家人家鄉所在「地方」的中介。 In contemporary writings, literature genres have been springing up like mushrooms. However, food writings are the most difficult to be categorized into a category of literature; therefore, the definition is the most diversified. The dimensions of food writings range from descriptions of personal eating experiences or the culinary processes, to memories of the past or another person. In the field of contemporary food writings, excellent writers emerge in large numbers. This study focuses on the theme of “hometown taste” in Han Liang-lu's food writings. Han Liang-lu's food writings focus on “flavors”, which center on the pursuit to find the identity of a place. Her “hometown taste” is combined with the concept of space (hometown) and “taste”. Her food writings are adventures of tastes, which enables her to be nostalgic of her hometown and family.

In contemporary writings, literature genres have been springing up like mushrooms. However, food writings are the most difficult to be categorized into a category of literature; therefore, the definition is the most diversified. The dimensions of food writings range from descriptions of personal eating experiences or the culinary processes, to memories of the past or another person. In the field of contemporary food writings, excellent writers emerge in large numbers. This study focuses on the theme of “hometown taste” in Han Liang-lu's food writings. Han Liang-lu's food writings focus on “flavors”, which center on the pursuit to find the identity of a place. Her “hometown taste” is combined with the concept of space (hometown) and “taste”. Her food writings are adventures of tastes, which enables her to be nostalgic of her hometown and family.