竹籬笆裡的飯菜香──眷村菜初探

Delicious Food inside Bamboo Fences: A Preliminary Study of the Military Dependents’ Village Food

「眷村菜」雖然有少數相關書籍及食譜出版，學術上卻少見對眷村菜進行有系統的研究。因此，本研究目的有三：一、釐清眷村菜的內涵、形成與發展；二、分析眷村菜與外省菜的差別；三、探討眷村菜在臺灣飲食文化中的定位與未來可能的發展方向。透過文獻分析、焦點團體法與深度訪談法分析後發現：眷村菜形成於1949年後的眷村及周邊環境，是就地取材、隨興製作的家常料理，且食材節約物盡其用，並具有延續性。「家常」飲食，以溫飽為考量；「非常飲食」則不同於平日，有豐富材料，菜色多樣化。「融合」是眷村菜相較於外省菜最明顯的差異，眷村內常見的「串門子」共食分享氛圍，使飲食先產生平行流動，再發生交互作用，融合大陸各省與本土臺灣味特色的「眷村菜」，成為「臺灣飲食界的特有種」。 Military dependents’ village food is a new term. To date, few books and recipes of thiscuisine have been published and frequently appear in media. Nevertheless, academicstudies of this cooking style are sparse. In this context, the research objectives are threefold:first, to clarify the meaning, characteristics, formation, and development of military dependents’ village cuisine; second, to analyze the difference between this food andprovincial food of China; third, to explore the positioning of this food in the Taiwan foodculture and its possible development in the future. This study uses literature research,focus groups and in-depth interviews. This cuisine has been developing since 1949 inmilitary dependents’ villages and nearby areas. This home cooking is casual, simple,improvisational and made of readily available ingredients. The purpose of this cooking isto feed the family. By doing so, ingredients are used continuously and nothing is wasted.The purpose of everyday cooking is to have enough to eat; on special occasions thecooking will be more diverse and rich. Military dependents’ village cuisine is a kind offusion food which distinguishes it from provincial cooking. Visiting the neighbors andsharing the food provide the opportunity for interacting and creating new recipes. The finalresult is military dependents’ village cuisine, a new Taiwan fusion food that combinesprovincial cooking and Taiwan ingredients.

Military dependents’ village food is a new term. To date, few books and recipes of thiscuisine have been published and frequently appear in media. Nevertheless, academicstudies of this cooking style are sparse. In this context, the research objectives are threefold:first, to clarify the meaning, characteristics, formation, and development of military dependents’ village cuisine; second, to analyze the difference between this food andprovincial food of China; third, to explore the positioning of this food in the Taiwan foodculture and its possible development in the future. This study uses literature research,focus groups and in-depth interviews. This cuisine has been developing since 1949 inmilitary dependents’ villages and nearby areas. This home cooking is casual, simple,improvisational and made of readily available ingredients. The purpose of this cooking isto feed the family. By doing so, ingredients are used continuously and nothing is wasted.The purpose of everyday cooking is to have enough to eat; on special occasions thecooking will be more diverse and rich. Military dependents’ village cuisine is a kind offusion food which distinguishes it from provincial cooking. Visiting the neighbors andsharing the food provide the opportunity for interacting and creating new recipes. The finalresult is military dependents’ village cuisine, a new Taiwan fusion food that combinesprovincial cooking and Taiwan ingredients.