物與俗：從滿洲騎射文化看清宮鹿皮使用風尚

Objects and the Popular: Deerskin Use in the Qing Court from the Perspective of Manchu mounted archery Culture

作為18世紀引領毛皮服飾「時尚」風氣的紫禁城，由上而下地影響當時中國各地的服飾穿著樣式。然而，毛皮種類繁多，自滿洲故里到紫禁城，穿著不同種類毛皮意味著貧富、地位的區隔。但這種區隔卻又並非涇渭分明，清宮鹿皮即為一例。若將鹿皮置於「雅俗之辨」脈絡討論，相對於貂皮、狐皮等毛皮，鹿皮似乎僅為貧困者或官階較低者所穿的「俗」物；然，這類「俗」物亦為清代皇室出外巡幸、狩獵的常見服飾類型，甚或被視為銘記滿洲源流的一環。
本文將勾勒鹿皮於滿洲文化脈絡下的使用情況，並追索清前期（17世紀至19世紀中葉）紫禁城的鹿皮在進貢、裁縫，及使用毛皮服飾與用品等階段。探討各地進貢的鹿皮，如何在帶有滿洲文化色彩的宮廷日常活動中，含括政治與社會地位的族群，而為清代皇室所使用，體現出不同於毛皮「時尚」的滿洲騎射文化復古實踐，及滿人的淳樸價值觀。最終，回應鹿皮為賤的說法，並以鹿製服飾與用品為案例，嘗試省思清宮物質文化中跨族群（如：滿、漢、歐洲）交流的可能性。

The 18th-century Forbidden City, which led the“fashion”trend of fur clothing, influenced the style of clothing worn throughout China from top to bottom. However, there were many types of fur, and the wearing of different types of fur, from Manchuria to the Forbidden City, signified a distinction of different wealth and social statuses. Nevertheless, this distinction was not always clear-cut, for example, using deerskin in the Qing court. If deerskin is discussed in the context of“a dispute between the elegance school and vulgarity school”, deerskin seems to be merely a“vulgar”item worn by the poor or those of lower official rank, , compared to furs such as sable and fox; however, this type of“vulgar”item was also a common type of clothing worn by the member of the Qing court during imperial touring and hunts, and was even regarded as a part of the remembrance of the Manchu origin. This article will outline the utilize of deerskin in the context of Manchu culture and trace the stages of deerskin in the first half of Qing Period(17th century to the mid-19th century) in the Forbidden City, including tribute, tailoring, and the use of fur clothing and accessories. It will explore how deerskin, which was presented as tribute from various places, was used by the Qing court in daily court activities with Manchu cultural characteristics. This phenomenon not only includes the members of diverse political and social status, but embodies a retro practice about Manchu mounted archery culture that was different from fur“fashion”, and the simple and unadorned values of the Manchus. Finally, it will respond to the claim that deerskin was cheap, and attempt to reflect on the possibility of cross-ethnic(such as Manchu, Han, and European) interaction in the material culture of the Qing court, using deerskin clothing and accessories as examples.