床頭有酒號金雞：臺灣紅露酒的飲用文化與流變

A Drink Called Golden Rooster by the Bed: The Drinking Culture and Evolution of Taiwan’s Hungluh Chiew

本文旨在以風土經濟與文化符號學為分析框架，探討臺灣紅露酒如何在不同歷史階段中，隨著社會文化脈絡的變遷，不斷重構其飲用文化與象徵意涵。紅露酒在二戰前稱為「紅酒」，原產於福建安溪，是漢人社會的重要傳統酒品。清代時期隨著漢人移民渡海來臺，其釀造技術亦隨之傳入，廣泛應用於家庭祭祀、壽宴與婚慶等儀式。紅酒鮮紅的色澤象徵喜慶與健康，寄託著對長者的祝福與祖先的敬意，為漢人生活禮俗中不可或缺的文化載體。從風土經濟的視角觀之，紅酒的特殊性不僅體現在糯米、紅麴等原料，以及獨特的釀造工藝與風味，更深深植根於臺灣北部的自然環境、社群習俗與技藝傳承之中。日治時期以降，隨著都市化的推展與殖民資本主義形成，酒樓等餐飲空間迅速興起，成為文人雅士與商賈名流的社交場域。紅酒遂由地方性的飲品，逐步轉化為彰顯身份與品味的都市文化資本。專賣制度的實施進一步促使紅酒商品化與符號化，以「金雞」為標誌的老紅酒，酒標設計融合象徵日本帝國的旭日意象與臺灣文化中的金雞圖騰，展現殖民現代性下的文化混成。紅酒於是被重構為由國家制度與市場邏輯共同建構的消費符號，成為社會階級、文化認同與群體歸屬的重要識別。二次戰後，雖然紅酒更名為紅露酒，但其文化象徵並未隨政權更替而消退，反而在1960年代經濟起飛與社會穩定的背景下，更深植於臺灣人的集體記憶，成為跨世代情感連結與地方認同的重要媒介。

This paper adopts the perspectives of terroir economy and cultural semiotics to analyze how Hungluh Chiew—a traditional Taiwanese rice wine—has continually reconstructed its cultural meanings and modes of consumption across various historical periods in response to shifting socio-cultural contexts. Known prior to 1945 simply as Red Wine (Anncyu), Hungluh Chiew originated in Anxi, Fujian, and was brought to Taiwan by Han Chinese immigrants during the Qing dynasty. It became widely used in important rituals such as ancestral worship, birthday banquets, and wedding ceremonies. Its vivid red hue symbolized festivity and health, while also embodying reverence for longevity and ancestral heritage, making it an indispensable element of Han ceremonial life. From the perspective of economy of terroir, the distinctiveness of Hungluh Chiew lies not only in its use of glutinous rice and Anka, or its unique brewing techniques and flavors, but also in its deep embeddedness within the natural geography of northern Taiwan and the local community’s practices and artisanal traditions. Following the Japanese colonial period, the advance of urbanization and colonial capitalism led to the emergence of restaurants and wine houses as key social venues for literati and wealthy merchants. Anncyu thus was gradually transformed from a locally consumed ceremonial drink into a form of urban cultural capital that signified social status and refined taste. The implementation of the monopoly system further accelerated its commodification and symbolization of Anncyu. Old Anncyu, marked by the“Golden Rooster”featured on the label, with a design that combined the rising sun symbolizing the Japanese Empire with the rooster totem, regarded as auspicious in Taiwanese culture, exemplifies the cultural hybridity of colonial modernity. Anncyu was thus reconstructed as a consumer symbol shaped jointly by state institutions and market logic, becoming an important marker of social class, cultural identity, and group affiliation. After World War II, though Anncyu was renamed Hungluh Chiew, its cultural significance did not diminish with the political regime change. On the contrary, it became more deeply embedded in Taiwan’s collective cultural memory, particularly during the period of economic growth and social stability of the 1960s. It evolved into a multi-generational emotional link and a symbol of local identity.