茶葉感官品評對於坪林及鹿野在地特色茶地方風味的再建構

Re-constructing the Local Flavor of Specialty Tea in Pinglin and Luye through Sensory Tea Evaluation

臺灣茶產業在不同世代茶師的努力下，發展出相異於世界上其他茶產區的獨特製法，是臺灣茶產業得以持續發展的重要推手。儘管現今已有區分不同茶類特色和風味的標準，但是進入不同產區探究其特定茶類時，都可發現茶師們對於何謂當地特色茶風味有其辯論及思考，新一代茶師尤其對此議題更加關注。臺灣各產區特色茶風味受到每年所舉辦的茶葉比賽評審結果影響，而使茶師在製茶技術和知識上進行微調，進而使茶風味在不同年代下有著差異性。依照此項論述，茶師們似乎在於茶風味的定義、保存及傳承方面是處於較為被動的角色。不過在坪林的青年茶業發展協會以及鹿野紅烏龍合作社的研究中了解，現在新一輩的茶師不僅藉由獲得茶葉感官品評專業人才的資格，進入當地地方茶比賽擔任審查人員，且也利用他們所組成的在地組織一起建構當地特色茶的風味，以展現當地的知識和技術，和對地方茶風味的論述。因此，本研究由茶葉感官品評證照的建立為出發點，探討在地茶師如何藉由自身品評的能力重新建構地方特色茶的風味，重新審視當地茶產業發展的脈絡及未來的挑戰，並確立每一產區特殊的地方價值。同時也論述地方茶產業在此過程中面對環境、技術及產業變化所展現的在地韌性。

Taiwan’s tea industry has a long history and has established unique knowledge and techniques for tea production. Thanks to these insights, the tea industry in Taiwan can achieve sustainable development. Every tea region in Taiwan features its own specialty tea, each with distinctive characteristics, flavor profiles, and evaluation standards. However, when delving into the study of specialty tea across various regions, local tea masters, especially those from the younger generation, offer their own unique perspectives on tea flavor. The flavor of specialty tea in each tea region is influenced by the outcomes of tea competitions, as tea masters modify their tea-making knowledge and techniques based on these results. Due to these factors, the tea flavor exhibits variations from year to year. In this context, tea makers play passive roles in defining, preserving, and inheriting tea flavor. However, in the study of“Pinglin Young Tea Farmers”and“Red Oolong Tea Cooperation,”the younger generation of tea masters takes on the role of judges in local tea competitions due to their qualifications as sensory tea evaluators. Within their local organizations of young tea farmers and masters, they collaborate to articulate their own perspectives on the flavor of local specialty tea. Through these efforts, they present local knowledge, techniques, and narratives related to local tea flavors. In this research, we use the establishment of sensory tea evaluation certifications to explore how local tea masters employ their evaluative capabilities in reconstructing the flavor of local specialty tea. The study aims to assess the development and future challenges of the local tea industry, as well as to delineate the distinctive local values of each tea region. Simultaneously, it delves into the local resilience exhibited by the tea industry in response to environmental, technological, and industrial challenges during this process.