臺茶的臺灣味：感官經驗、文化傳承與認同

What makes Taiwan Teas Taiwan's: Sensory Experience, Cultural Heritage and Identity

本篇文章從製作與品飲──也就是感官經驗的層次──探索臺灣茶葉的「臺灣味」。臺灣主要生產部分發酵茶，其製作傳統可溯源福建安溪及武夷，品飲方式建基於早期閩南移民帶來臺灣之工夫茶，兩者皆從文化的傳承出發，開創出臺灣的特色。此篇文章即從歷史與人類學的角度及臺茶的品種香、製茶工藝、傳統與現代的動態關係、清香化的趨勢、茶藝文化及喝純或調味茶等面向，來討論臺灣人習慣之茶味的形成與感受，並強調，臺灣味不只包括茶葉的特殊風味，亦包括茶葉商品化的方式、流行風潮、泡茶的技藝與價值的認定所形成的風味特色。這些特色於品茗中浮現，也於每日的品飲中提醒著偏愛臺茶的消費者，他們享受臺灣味的同時，也表達著臺灣的認同。

This paper explores what makes Taiwan’s teas distinctive from the perspective of sensory experience. Taiwan produces mainly partly fermented teas, whose heritage can be traced to Anxi and Wuyi counties in Fujian Province. Her tea tasting practice derives from gongfu (工夫) tea traditions brought by early migrants from southern Fujian. Based on this heritage, Taiwan’s tea industry has developed a characteristic“Taiwan flavor”. This paper stresses that this Taiwan flavor includes not only the special savor of the tea, but also the brewing techniques, value positioning, and processes of commercialization that have also been important factors. When Taiwan’s tea lovers enjoy their favorite local teas, it also creates a special identification with Taiwan.