從品茗圈的普洱茶氣說到烏龍茶消費：以凍頂茶區為例

The Impact of Tea-Chi Inspired by Celebrities' Pu-erh Tea Drinking on Oolong Tea Consumption: The Example of the Dongding Tea Plantation

本研究以凍頂地區為例，探討臺灣的茶區受到普洱品飲的啟發，進而生產有機、野放、特殊烏龍茶品的演變過程。為了讓有茶氣的烏龍茶成為茶區裡被認同的茶品，生產者分別從茶的物質與象徵面進行操作，並從消費者端的認同來建構這個茶品。本研究透過分析說明凍頂茶區茶農轉變的歷程與關鍵，在於生產者對凍頂環境變遷的審視，以及將現況與普洱的環境等條件做類比，並掌握市場的風潮與需求，造就烏龍茶氣茶品的生產以及在茶區成為另類茶品。本研究透過訪談、參與式研究等，描繪茶氣其實是普洱品飲者創造的詞彙，觀察飲料進入身體後，感知到飲品在身體的流布，以此來對茶進行各種的判斷。該詞彙從中醫食療裡採借，會被接受是因為茶氣裡的「氣」在中國社會的文化意涵所延伸出的養生保健概念有關。這種強調身體氣感的品茗方式，傳統中醫並不認同，但卻被茶人認為源自傳統醫學，並且視為是傳統品飲普洱的一種方式。本研究認為，當烏龍茶接受氣感的品飲方式時，意味烏龍茶品質的建構方式發生改變，行動者企圖以另類品質，並結合茶區的其他元素，共構成一個可以與主流茶品對話的具體論述；並與原本品飲烏龍茶的感官品評進行對話，以及對茶區比賽茶所建構的體系進行反思。

This study examines how changes in the Taiwanese tea regions were inspired by the Pu-erh tea example to produce organic, wild, and special flavor oolong teas, using the Dongding tea plantation as an example. In order to make tea with oolong tea-chi, a recognized tea constituent in the tea region, the producers manipulated both ingredients and symbolic aspects of the tea to construct tea-chi from the consumer's perspectives. This study analyzes the key process of change - that is, the tea producer's examination of the changing environment of the Dongding tea plantation. This study also examines the analogy between the current situation and the environment of Pu-erh tea production and marketing, as well as the market trends and demand, resulting in the production of Oolong tea products and the emergence of Oolong tea-chi as an alternative tea product in the tea region. Through interviews and participatory research, this study finds that tea-chi is actually a term invented by Pu-erh tea drinkers to refer to the flow of the beverage as it enters the body, and to make various judgments while the tea is in the body. The term is borrowed from Chinese dietary therapy and is accepted as a concept related to the connotation of “chi” in tea-chi in Chinese society, which is connected with concepts of health and wellness. This way of tasting tea, which emphasizes the sense of chi in the body, is not recognized by traditional oriental medicine practitioners, but is considered by tea people to have originated from traditional medicine and is regarded as a traditional aspect of drinking pu-erh tea. This study argues that when Oolong tea embraces the sense of chi, it means that the way of constructing the quality of Oolong tea has changed. Tea makers and connoisseurs attempt to use alternative quality concepts and combine other elements in the tea region, to construct a discourse with mainstream tea products, and further develop the sensory evaluation criteria for Oolong tea tasting in the competition among teas in the tea region.