臺灣早餐日常實踐：西式早餐店的角色和戰術

The Everyday Practice of Taiwanese Breakfast: The Role and Tactics of Western-style Breakfast Shops

根據《台灣食品消費調查統計年鑑》對於在三餐中購買餐食（指一頓餐食中超過半數或全部菜色向外購買者）比例的統計中，早餐一直是當中最高的。由此即可了解臺灣人在早餐購買外食的高比例，也因此無論在城市或鄉村的大街小巷，都可在早上看見獨特的早餐店飲食地景，繼而形成臺灣飲食文化中獨特的一部分。本研究由國民小學的教科書分析一日三餐的飲食時序和吃早餐的重要性是如何藉由學校教育被建構。再來，以早餐店作為研究場域，利用參與觀察和訪談早餐店的經營者和消費者之間的互動及關係，並使用Michel de Certeau所提出的「戰術（tactics）」概念分析在社會的工作時序以及一日三餐的飲食時序下，早餐店藉由營業時間及節奏和人力配置等方面去展現多樣的戰術，包含速度、服務及記憶，讓消費者可以突破社會的時序，在短時間購買到自己想要吃到的早餐，以達到履行日常生活中早餐的食用需求。

"According to the“Almanac of Food Consumption Survey in Taiwan”, the survey of buying dishes for each meal shows that breakfast is always in highest demand compared with other meals. This high customer demand for breakfast is the reason why in Taiwan, breakfast shops can be found everywhere, and have become one of the most distinctive aspects of food culture in Taiwan. In this article, elementary school textbooks are first investigated to show how a circadian rhythm of three meals a day and the importance of breakfast were established through schooling. Second, participant observation and interviews with managers and employees of the breakfast shops, especially the Western-style breakfast shops, shows that these breakfast shops know how to apply different tactics to help customers to break the restrictions of social rhythm to gain and consume their breakfast in a time-limited fashion. According to the research, business hours and human resource allocations are tactics of breakfast shops, and these tactics rely on the speed of services, customer services and accuracy of service. Because of these tactics, the breakfast shops can satisfy their customers’need for eating breakfast in everyday life."