梅花餐：近代臺灣筵席改革運動的興衰及其所涉及的「社交危機」與「道德焦慮」

Plum Blossom Banquet: The Rise and Fall of the Feast Reform Movement in Modern Taiwan and the 'Social Crisis' and 'Moral Anxiety' Involved

梅花餐，又稱梅花筵或梅花宴，這是出現於20世紀70年代，由當時臺灣若干政治、社會團體所宣揚的筵席節約形式。從表面上來看，梅花宴的倡導與推廣，似乎只與現代政治團體的風俗導正策略有關。然而，如果參看史料，我們可以發現相似的主張，早在20世紀前半葉就已然存在，而節儉同樣是其號召。史料顯示，20世紀所出現的數次有關中餐筵席改革的呼聲，雖然彼此之間沒有直接的因果關係，但在本質上卻容或有相似之處。此即，都主張儉約是一種道德的實踐。事實上，包括筵席在內的飲食節儉觀點，很多時候也只是「潛流」，又或是只在特定階層中被奉持著，它並未形成廣泛的共識。然而，在一些變遷激烈的場域裡，它又會被拿來當作改革的目標。關於此，那個在臺灣經濟起飛世代中，象形梅花，以五菜一湯格式呈現的「梅花宴」又洵是顯例。本文擬從以下三部分進行論述：首則論梅花宴的形成與推廣小史，次則探究梅花宴何以不為人所喜的原由，最後再終之以思想、認知上的探討。而描摹筵席改革所富涵的諸多社會文化意涵，則是本文的主要旨趣。

The 'Plum blossom banquet' is a simple form of banquet that emerged in the 70's and was promoted by several political and social groups in Taiwan at that time. In its appearance, the promotion of plum blossom banquet related only to the customary strategy of modern political groups, however, by looking into historical data closely, we can find that similar ideas existed in the first half of the 20th century, and thrift was its goal.According to historical data, there have been several calls for the reform of Chinese feasts in the 20th century. Although there was no direct cause-and-effect relationship between them, they were substantially similar, which is the idea that thrift is the embodiment of morality. In fact, the concept of thrifty eating and drinking, as well as thrifty banquets, is often only an