另類農食品質建構－－古坑咖啡個案

Construct of Alternative Food Quality-A Case Study of Gukeng Coffee

另類農食為當代農食研究新興議題，其品質建構有別於慣行農食體系。本研究以古坑咖啡為例，探究其崛起的過程中，相關行動者如何賦予、建構其品質以及這當中的互動與權力關係。研究者以為，品質並非由單一行動者所定義，而是在特定情境脈絡下產生。古坑咖啡的品質建構係在「地方」基礎上，由行動者各自詮釋品質意涵，進而與消費者產生連結：廣告傳媒透過論述使得咖啡與特定地理區域與歷史產生連繫；地方政府透過節慶活動舉辦取得該產品的壟斷地租；咖啡廳業者、農民、農會與果菜合作社依自身條件，透過不同品質論述策略與消費者產生連結。

Alternative food is a newfound topic in contemporary agro-food studies. Its quality is assessed differently from that of the conventional food. Through Gukeng coffee, this study delves into the relevant actors that construct the discourse of ''quality,'' as well as the dynamics and struggles involved. It is considered in this study that the quality cannot be defined by any single actor, but to be generated through specific contexts. For instance, Gukeng coffee's quality relies on its ''localness,'' and yet each actor may hold their own definition of ''quality'' as they try to reach consumers. Advertising agencies, press and media may promote the coffee by telling Gukeng's past stories. The local government may organize festivals and events to acquire the product's monopoly rent. Café owners, farmers, farmers' associations as well as fruit and vegetable co-ops may try to build a relationship with customers by taking pride in their own quality coffee.