日本平安朝物語文學中服裝的作用──關於其視、聽、嗅覺性的審美觀

The Role of Clothing In the Monogatori of Early and Middle Heian Period: Visual, Audial and Olfactory Aesthetics

日本平安朝貴族社會的現實生活中，男女交際被重重的簾幕、屏風、隔屏衣架等等家具遮掩、阻斷了視線，在此狀態下，除了女性的襲衣（襲，kasane）服飾袖口外，男性為了認識女性只能啟動視覺以外的感官。為此，才會出現有如《宇津保物語》中的音樂，成為審美感的重要媒介。更甚者，若利用嗅覺性化妝用品的香料或香木，會比起視覺性的化妝和音樂音效，更無形無音，不僅可穿透遮蔽物和空間，甚至連時間都可以超越。平安朝貴族社會中，服裝除了有顏色和模樣的視覺性印象外，可以藉由「衣服動靜間」產生的衣服摩擦音的聽覺性效果，以及「體香（人香hitoriga）」、「移染香韻（移り香utsuriga）」的嗅覺性意義也是重要要素。平安時代代表性文化的裳唐衣姿（mokaraginusugata，日本和服），比起女性特徵的亮麗芳香、髮長及地的黑髮，寧可說才是男女雙方足以展現自我的身體和靈魂的容器。本拙論的考察目的在於，出現在日本平安朝物語文學中的書中人物，透過視覺、聽覺、嗅覺性的審美觀如何展演出服裝顏色、與自然共鳴的服裝模樣、薰染進衣服的香味以及能感知對象動靜的「衣服摩擦音」？並如何透過服裝，創造出其中的共鳴作用來？日本平安朝貴族們的感官特性，雖然是從視覺性審美觀發達至聽覺性、嗅覺性審美觀，但是比起女性的黑髮來，足以展現男女彼此之間全身的身體和靈魂容器的和服，可以透過色澤、與自然共鳴的模樣、薰染進衣服的「體香」、「移染香韻」等功能，除了能表現出視覺、聽覺、嗅覺的美感之外，服裝更可以將視覺、聽覺、嗅覺性審美觀一體化並展現其功效。

In the aristocratic society of Ancient Japan, men and women were blocked by heavy curtains, screens and other furniture and only the cuff of women's kasane which protrudes beyond the folding screen could be seen. In order to get to know the woman, men could only use other senses. To this end, music becomes an important medium of aesthetic sense in Utsubo Monogatari. Furthermore, the use of olfactory cosmetic such as perfume or incense is more effective than visual make-up and music. Not only can they breach the hindrances of folding screens and space, they can even go beyond time. In the aristocratic society, in addition to the visual impression of color and appearance of the clothing, the auditory effect of the frictional sound of the clothes and the “body odor” (hitoriga), lingering fragrance (utsuriga) is also important. Compared to the feminine fragrance, floor length hair, the Mokaraginusugata, Japanese kimono, is the piece of clothing that enables both men and women to display their body and soul. The purpose of is study is to understand the how the senses (Visual Audial and Olfactory) influenced the development of the color of clothing, the appearance of natural garments, the aroma of the clothes, the smell of the clothes, and frictional sound of the clothes. The sensory characteristics of the noble class of Japan are developed from visual senses to auditory and olfactory senses. In comparison with the female black hair, the kimono is a container displaying the body and soul between men and women. The kimono is able to do so through color, natural resonance of the appearance, “body incense” smoked into the clothes, “lingering fragrance” and other methods. Therefore, the kimono can display visual, auditory, olfactory aesthetics, and it can be said that it also combines visual auditory, olfactory aesthetics in one piece of clothing.