來去蚵仔寮買現撈：魚種、漁法，與魚市場的再拼裝

Buying Some Fresh Fish at Kezailiao: Fish Species, Fishing Techniques, and the (Re-) Assembling of Fish Markets

本文藉由高雄蚵仔寮魚市場的發展歷程，討論魚市場這樣一個異質的社會／技術拼裝體，是如何因著裝配不同物質設備、由不同特性人與非人行動者構成，或受到不同組織文化的影響，而產生不同市場型態。我將指出，在「烏魚市場」時期，由於野生烏魚的洄游特性與其所出現的時節、海相，漁民所採用的是需要緊密社會連帶合作模式的巾著網漁法，這時期的市場是在沙灘上、狹小卻最能體現其社會連帶的藏仔寮。當野生烏魚消失後，這樣一個強調「社會性」的臨時市場也漸漸消失。而在漁會努力發展的「現撈市場」中，其利用的是漁民跨界交易的特性，以及下雜魚難以分而銷售的物質性，逐步藉著吸引漁民靠岸、建立冷凍工廠、豐富現撈魚貨、吸引外來攤商、接軌HACCP認證機制，進而拼裝出現在的蚵寮魚市場。在這現撈市場中，「市場性」的功能超過社會關係的重要性。 This paper discusses the development of the fish market in Kezailiao, Kaohsiung, a market which is based on an assemblage of different material equipment, composed of different people and non-human actors with different characteristics, and influenced by different organizational cultures, resulting in different market patterns. I use 'fish species' as an entry-point to divide the history of the fish market into 'Mullet Market' and 'Fresh-fish Market' stages. Before the 1990s, in what I call the period of the 'Mullet Market,' wild mullet was the main economic fish species. Fishermen's fishing methods, religion, social relations and market patterns were all connected with the biological characteristics of mullet. However, with the disappearance of wild mullet, these fishing techniques, social institutions and landscapes have also disappeared. After the 2000s, the fishery association tried to develop a tourist fish market that emphasized fresh-fishing. The fishery association purchased the trash fish under a guaranteed price system to attract fishermen to the fishing port to auction the catch, then established a refrigeration plant, and promoted the HACCP certification mechanism, and finally brought together the 'Fresh-fish Market.' This research attempts to point out that in the process of re-assembly of the fish market, marketability gradually replaces sociality.