日治時期臺灣菜譜的演進與東亞食文化的跨境流動

Transformation of Taiwanese Cuisine and Cross-border Exchange of East Asian Food Culture in Japanese Colonial Taiwan

本文旨在分析1900年以降至1930年代幾種重要菜譜的內容與特色，考察臺灣料理的發展動向，藉此闡釋二十世紀初期現代東亞內部的食文化跨境流動脈絡，及其對臺灣食景（foodscape）的影響。從菜譜的分析發現，臺灣料理發展趨勢乃逐漸脫離原來偏於福建式的技法與口味，而與當時流行於上海、東京等東亞大都會、薈萃中國各地口味的中華料理越趨相近。推測其原因，與十九世紀末期以來因為戰爭、殖民、貿易、旅遊以及中間階層的發展，而興起之東亞食文化的跨境流動有關。臺灣雖受日本殖民統治，但受此潮流影響，反而積極從中國引入各地方菜餚，以滿足臺灣人、在臺日本人，與來臺旅遊之日本人之品嘗中華料理的興味。由此可見，即使日治時期，臺灣食景的發展不單只是受日本的影響，而是受包括中國在內之東亞各食文化潮流的影響。這些外來的食文化並非只是單純的移植，無論是來自中國的川菜、粵菜或北方菜餚，在經過改造後與本地既有的菜餚相結合，並由餐館業者與食譜書作者加以論述，進而成為臺灣食景中具有代表性的臺灣料理。

Through analyzing the contents and characteristics of representative menus and cookbooks of Taiwanese cuisine published between 1900 and 1937, this article aims to explore the transformation of Taiwanese cuisine in the early 20th century, examine the cross-border exchange of food culture among East Asian countries, and explain its impact on the foodscape of Taiwan. The analysis showed that under the influence of popular ‘Chinese cuisines' prevalent in East Asian cosmopolitan cities such as Shanghai and Tokyo in the early 20th century, the flavor and cooking techniques of ‘Taiwanese cuisine' had gradually digressed from its origin: Fujian cuisine. Cross-border exchange and communication of food culture among East Asian countries had emerged in the late 19th century as the result of war, colonization, trade, travel, and the growth of middle class. Though under the colonial rule of Japan, the owners of restaurants in Taiwan actively introduced authentic cuisines of China to Taiwan to satisfy the new taste of local Taiwanese as well as Japanese officers, tourists and residents in Taiwan. Consequently, the foodscape of Taiwan was not only shaped by the Japanese as the colonizer, but also influenced by the food culture circulating in other East Asian countries. Of note is that the cuisines and food culture of other East Asian countries were not merely transplanted into Taiwan. Instead, these Chinese cuisines were adapted and adjusted to meet the local taste. Interestingly, many of these ‘adapted Chinese cuisines' were nowadays viewed as ‘traditional Taiwanese cuisine'. Examining menus written by restaurant owners and cookbooks revealed how the new discourses of Taiwanese cuisine were formed, and how some Chinese cuisines were embedded into the foodscape of Taiwan and became representative ‘Taiwanese cuisine.'