環境、軍需、移動人口：澎湖餐飲業歷史變遷與「島嶼型食生活」研究

Environment, Military Needs, and Moving Population: History of Penghu Catering Business and Research on “Island Foodways”

澎湖作為一個具戰略重要性的小型島嶼，在食生活的發展上有其特殊性：自然資源受限、人口外移多，且是重要的軍事基地。本文考察澎湖日常食生活之基礎與餐飲業的歷史變遷，分析日治時期及戰後初期政權變動下，戰略地位、國家政策與人口移動等條件的改變如何影響了澎湖的餐飲業與食生活。本文認為，「環境、軍需、移動人口」是「島嶼型食生活」的重要影響要素，尤其各種形式的「移動人口」對於澎湖此小型島嶼的食生活有著關鍵影響。日治時期澎湖的餐飲業主要供給馬公的日本駐軍與官員；二次戰後的新餐館則反映了大量來自山東等地駐軍與新移民的喜好口味。直到1970年代觀光業發展，海鮮餐廳才為因應觀光客此短期移動人口的需求而逐漸興起。本文一方面分析澎湖食生活的形塑，藉此探究飲食與地方社會變遷的關係；另一方面提出，「環境、軍需、移動人口」可作為日後對其他小型島嶼進行飲食史變遷分析與相互比較的關鍵項目。希望藉由澎湖的研究，建立一「島嶼型食生活」的研究基模。

As an archipelago of islands and islets in the Taiwan Strait with significant military importance, Penghu has developed its unique foodway under the conditions of seriously limited natural resources and large migrating population. This article examines the factors shaping daily meals of Penghu and the transformation of Penghu catering business in history, exploring how different political regimes and policies influenced the catering business of Penghu. By analyzing the case of Penghu, this paper further highlights the research scheme of “Island Foodways,” aiming to provide an innovative and comparative perspective to scrutinize the foodways of small islands. Penghu had long been an important military base since the 13th century, but its poor soil, windy climate, and a shortage of rain led to frequent famine in history. During the Japanese colonial period, Penghu was taken as a Japanese naval base. Japanese restaurants and other dining establishments emerged to meet the needs of Japanese officers and navy, along with other military-related businesses. With the end of the WWII, military forces migrating from Mainland China became the chief customers of dining business, reshaping the food scene of Penghu. Until the 1970s, when tourism developed with important transportation constructions and advanced fishery industry, seafood restaurants substituted other dining choices, marking the growing importance of the new “moving population”: tourists. This article suggests that environment, military needs, and moving population are significant factors influencing the “island foodways” of Penghu, which merit further comparative research in the future.