含天然物成分化妝品檢驗方法開發 (II)──甘草   全文下載

Development of an Assay Method for Natural Products Containing Cosmetics (II)–Licorice

本研究建立含有甘草化妝品之定量方法，化妝水以甲醇進行萃取，而乳劑及霜劑則以鹽析法進行前處理，續以高效液相層析儀梯度沖提法搭配光電二極矩陣偵測器，進行化妝品中甘草指標成分glycyrrhizin, liquiritin及 glycyrrhetinic acid之分析，以乙?及1%磷酸水為移動相，結果顯示三種指標成分之檢量線於化妝水其濃度5.0至50.0 μg/ml，而乳劑及霜劑其濃度範圍2.5至100.0 μg/ml呈良好現性關係（> 0.994），其回收率於化妝水為88.8 - 107.4%，乳劑及霜劑分別為91.7 - 104.1% 及95.6 - 105.5%，並進行方法確效分析，及市售產品之檢測。結果顯示可於甘草萃取物測得glycyr-rhizin，而七種市售產品中三種可測得glycyrrhizin（16.8 to 113.4 μg/ml）， glycyrrhizin為甘草指標成分中含量最高者，其他指標成分未測得可能因含量較低及大量稀釋有關，本研究所建立之前處理及定量方法可應用於含甘草類之化妝品定量。 "

This study established a quantification method for cosmetics containing licorice. During pretreatment, methanol was used as a solvent for extraction of lotion products and a salting-out method with a photodiode array detector for emulsions and creams. A gradient high performance liquid chromatographic method was established to determine liquiritin, glycyrrhizin and glycyrrhetinic acid in lico-rice-containing cosmetics. Samples were analyzed by gradient elution with a mobile phase containing acetonitrile and 1% phosphoric acid at a flow rate of 1.0 mL/min. Calibration curves of the three compounds were constructed in the range of 5.0 - 50.0 µg/mL in glycerin solution and 2.5 - 100.0 μg/mL in emulsion and cream. The correlation coefficients were all above 0.994. The average recoveries of these three compounds were 88.8 - 107.4%, 91.7 - 104.1% and 95.6 - 105.5% in glycerin solution, emulsion, and cream, respectively. The analytical method was further validated and employed in the assay of the commercial products. The results showed that glycyrrhizin could be detected in licorice extracts. With regard to the quantification of marker components in commercial products, glycyrrhizin (16.8 to 113.4 μg/mL) was detected in 3 out of 7 licorice-containing commercial products. Glycyrrhizin was the most abundant component in licorice, while other marker compounds were not detectable, probably due to low contents or extensive dilution. The method developed in this study can be applied to commercial cosmetics containing licorice for the assurance of product quality.