開發酒粕作為美白保濕劑   全文下載

Development of Wine Cake as a Skin-Whitening Agent and Humectant

本實驗收集15種酒粕，就美白作用及保濕效果予以探討，首先分析其脂肪酸與游離胺基酸含量。結果顯示，黃酒踏粕所含游離胺基酸量最高（630 mg/100 g），而所有酒粕之脂肪酸含量均較日本清酒酒粕高，因此等成分與人體所具有之天然保濕因子及細胞間脂質相似，由此顯示可開發為化妝品保濕劑之價值。另將酒粕之酒精萃取物進行酪胺酸?抑制圈試驗、酪胺酸?活性抑制率及抑制黑色素瘤細胞dOPa quinone之合成試驗。酪胺酸?抑制圈試驗結果顯示高粱酒與黃酒酒粕之抑制圈大於熊果?。而各種酒粕酪胺酸?活性抑制率強弱依序為：高梁酒乾酒粕、黃酒踏粕、高梁酒濕酒粕、黃酒乾酒粕及黃酒濕酒粕；至於抑制黑色素瘤細胞dOPa quinone 之合成試驗，高梁酒乾酒粕之作用為熊果?之1.03倍，高梁酒濕酒粕為0.74倍，黃酒乾酒粕為0.62倍，黃酒濕酒粕為0.94倍，清酒酒粕為0.78倍。上述三項試驗結果顯示，高梁酒酒粕及黃酒酒粕可開發作為美白保濕劑。

In this study, 15 wine cakes from various sources were collected for the investigation of whitening and moisturizing effects. The fatty acid and free amino acid contents of the wine cakes were analyzed. The results showed that flattened yellow wine cake had the highest free amino acid contents (630 mg/100 g) among all the wine cakes tested. In addition, the fatty acid content of the wine cakes was higher than that of Japanese sake wine. Since the fatty acids and amino acids of wine cake are similar to the natural moisturizing factors and the intercellular lipids in the human epidermis, the wine cakes could be applied as cosmetic humectants. The ethanolic extracts of wine cakes were subjected to tests for the inhibition zones of tyrosinase, the inhibition rates on tyrosinase activity, and inhibition of DOPA quinone synthesis via B16 melanoma cell. The inhibition zones of tyrosinase caused by grain sorghum wine cakes and yellow wine cakes were larger than that of arbutin. Reduction of the inhibition rate on tyrosinase activity was in the following order: dry grain sorghum wine cake, flattened yellow wine cake, wet grain sorghum wine cake, dry yellow wine cake and wet yellow wine cake. Moreover, in the tests for inhibition of DOPA quinone synthesis, higher inhibitions were shown for dry grain sorghum wine cake by 1.03-fold, wet grain sorghum wine cake by 0.74-fold, dry yellow wine cake by 0.62-fold, wet yellow wine cake by 0.94-fold, and sake wine cake by 0.78-fold, when compared with arbutin. Our results of the three in vitro inhibition tests for tyrosinase activity indicated that grain sorghum wine cakes and yellow wine cakes can be developed for use as skin-whitening agents and humectants.