可同時分析化粧品中含蘆薈及黃芩指標成分之高效液相層析方法   全文下載

An HPLC Method for the Simultaneous Determination of Marker Compounds of Aloe and Scutellariae Radix in Cosmetics

對化粧品之全成分標示的規定，行政院衛生署已於91年5月5日公告實施。化粧品通常加入中藥萃取物以吸引消費者，隨著這些萃取物使用的增加，如何檢驗產品之內容物是否與標示符合，就管理而言是極重要的，因此開發檢驗方法為對管理此一成分標示的議題是不可或缺之一環。本研究試圖建立含有蘆薈及黃芩化粧品之定量方法，首先探討中藥抽提液原料中指標成分之分析方法，並製作相關化粧品模型製劑，建立添加指標成分後之分析方法，並完成確效。結果顯示其指標成分檢量線於濃度1.6 至 50.0 μg/mL範圍其線性關係良好（> 0.99）。化粧水以甲醇萃取濃縮，而乳劑及霜劑需先經鹽析再以甲醇萃取濃縮後，以高效液相層儀梯度沖提法進行分析。本研究分析所收集市售中藥萃取物原料，結果顯示，蘆薈抽提液原料4件皆未檢測出aloin 、aloin-emodin及chrysophanol；黃芩抽提液2件皆檢出含有baicalin與wogonin。而針對所收集的市售含中藥化粧品指標成分的研究部分，分析結果顯示，市售蘆薈化粧品23件皆未檢出aloin 、aloin-emodin及hrysophanol；市售黃芩化粧品3件皆未檢出baicalin及wogonin，而化粧品中所含指標成分並未檢出，可能因其所含指標成分量過低、稀釋倍數高或降解所致。本研究所建立的方法將可運用於含有蘆薈及黃芩萃取物之化粧品定量分析以確保消費者之權益。

The Department of Health in Taiwan has announced mandatory labeling of the whole composition of cosmetics since May 5, 2002. Chinese herbal extracts are commonly added to cosmetics to attract consumers. To follow the earlier-mentioned regulation, it is important to develop a quantitative method to examine the contents of products to which Chinese herbal extracts have been added. This study attempted to establish a quantitative method for aloe and Scutellariae Radix (SR) in cosmetics. An HPLC/UV method using gradient elution was established to analyze marker compounds in herbal extracts and spiked blank cosmetic bases. The calibration curves of the marker compounds were linear (r > 0.99) in the range of 1.6 to 50.0 μg/mL. The analytical method was validated and commercial products were assayed. The results indicated that aloin, aloe-emodin and chrysophanol were not detected in all four aloe extracts. Baicalin and wogonin were detected in the two SR extracts. However, marker compounds of these two herbs were not detectable in the 26 commercial product samples.