南宋江南的外食產業：從《夷監志》看宋代的酒肆、茶肆與食店

Foodservices at Jiangnan in Southern Song Period: Pub, teahouse, and restaurant in Song Period from Yijianzhi

宋代的飲食文化極為發達，其主因與酒肆、茶肆及食店這類外食產業的興盛有關。本文從南宋洪邁《夷堅志》所錄之外食產業相關記載，闡明下列五點：第一，兩宋時期的酒肆、茶肆、食店等，有酒樓、酒店、酒肆、酒家、小旗亭、酒坊、茶肆、茶坊、茶邸、食店、食肆等多樣的名稱，並以北宋的開封和南宋的臨安為首，其分布的地區以江南為中心，逐漸擴展至華北及華南一帶。第二，酒肆、茶肆的開設與經營者，上自官員、富民，下至貧民皆有，階級分布廣泛，並依貧富差距而使開設規模有所不同。第三，規模較大的酒樓中，存在當壚或妓女等各類相關人員；但在酒肆或茶肆中，多半僅由開設者與家人共同經營，屬於小規模的家族經營模式。第四，顧客使用這些外食產業的目的，除了飲食、人際交流、休息等之外，酒肆還有邂逅女性、反社會活動聚集等功能。第五，這些外食產業的客層包含官員、知識分子、道士、僧侶、商人與一般民眾等各類人士。

During the Song period, food and drink culture was widely developed. Food service venues like pubs, teahouses, and restaurants assumed a role in the flourishing of this culture. This article discusses five aspects of this culture, based on stories about food service venues in the Southern Song period Yijianzhi by Hongmai. First, pubs, teahouses and restaurants of that time were spread out over northern China and southern China, centering on Jiangnan, during the Northern and Southern Song periods. These establishments were called various names. Second, owners who opened and managed pubs and teahouses were from a wide segment of the population, from officials and affluent people to paupers, and the size of the premises was often different according to the gap between rich and poor. Third, in drinking parlors and large-scale pubs there was a diversity of service staff such as sales assistants, female assistants at liquor shops, sex workers, and female entertainers. On the other hand, most of the pubs and teahouses were managed on a small scale by the owner, his wife and daughters. Fourth, purposes of making use of food premises included drinking and eating, personnel exchanges, and recreation, apart from adult entertainment. Fifth, customers at these food premises included officers, intellectuals, Taoist priests, monks, merchants and ordinary citizens.