農村移民的日常生活策略：烹調麻辣燙的綜合技能

Everyday Strategies of Rural Migrants: Assembling Skills in Mala tang Production

此篇論文主旨在以麻辣燙小吃店的個案研究，顯示透過謀生技能的角度來理解移民之研究視角的價值。麻辣燙是四川地區類似火鍋的湯麵。此篇從德國人類學家Gerd Spittler對於「工作」的定義出發，分析在麻辣燙餐廳工作所需的技能。田野資料為2007與2008年，在一間由安徽農村移民在上海市區所開的麻辣燙餐廳所蒐集到的。此研究的目的，試圖從移民的工作與相關技能，填補飲食與移民研究間的空白；此外，也希望透過研究農村移民在街頭經營的小吃，增加吾人對上海飲食文化的認識。本文的一個重要論點為：觀察移民的生計，尤其是打工與炊事技能，能更深刻地了解移民過程，包括移民能動性、移民動機、移民過程的組織、移民的日常生活，以及移民過程的整體動力。

This article aims to show the value of viewing migration through the lens of skill, by considering the case study of a restaurant selling mala tang, a Sichuanese hotpot-like noodle soup. Inspired by the German anthropologist Gerd Spittler’s concept of “work,” the skills needed to work in a mala tang restaurant are analysed. Data was collected through ethnographic fieldwork in 2007/08 in a restaurant run by rural migrants from Anhui in urban Shanghai. The purpose of this study is to fill a gap in the research on food and migration, by focusing on migrant work and related skills, and to add the aspect of fast food prepared in informal street restaurants by rural migrants to the corpus of research on the Shanghainese culinary landscape. It is argued that focusing on the everyday strategies of migrants, and particularly on the work and (food-) skills of these migrants, provides a useful perspective through which to gain an in-depth understanding of migration processes. These include migrants’ agency, migrants’ motivations, the organisation of their migration process and everyday lives, and the overall dynamic of the migration process.