海上鱗族異者－－章魚史話與書寫

Particular Oceanic Fish: Story and Writing of Octopuses

本文「章魚」泛指軟體動物門(Mollusca)、頭足綱(Cephalopoda)、章魚目(Octopoda)、章魚科(Octopodidae)的八足海洋生物，是現代餐桌上常見的海產，善於變形與變色，在近代的生物學研究中，章魚具有記憶能力，是聰明的動物。海產在中國飲食史中佔有重要地位，其中魚、蝦蟹、貝類等，史載悠久，並跨出日常性食用範疇，成為獨特品項的飲食文化與文學意涵，有豐富的研究成果，相較之下，無骨無鱗的章魚至遲到唐代以後才有較明確的稱呼和記載，但名稱各異，內容也有混淆的情形。本文透過文獻整理，試探古人對章魚的認識、利用與文人的書寫面向，補充海洋生物史中為人忽視的一環。

In this paper, octopuses refer to marine life with eight arms which is categorized in the field of Mollusca, Cephalopoda, Octopoda, and Octopodidae. The creature is good at changing its looking and color and becomes a common seafood dish today. In the recent biological research, octopuses is an intelligent animal because of its ability of memorizing. Seafood plays an important role in Chinese cuisine. For example, apart from the daily used for food, fishes, crabs, shellfishes, and shrimps, according to historical data, become a representation of unique cuisine culture which is provided with a specific literary iamge. Compared with the abundant research in fishes and so on, octopuses was explicitly named and recorded till Tang dynasty. However, the name of octopuses was given differently then. The definition was vague as well. Through the literature review, this paper would discuss the appearance of octopuses, its status in ancient Chinese, and the facet of scholor's writing, which is to be a supplementation for the neglected topic on history.